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miércoles 30 de abril de 2008

free download nes emulation synthesizer v1.6

triforce

nes emulation synthesizer v1.6

triforce is a vst instrument that closely emulates the sounds of a classic nintendo entertainment system. there are only three wave types: square, triangle, and noise. there is also a simple arpeggiator for making classic 8-bit sounding tunes. version 1.5 lost the filters, as i felt they took away from the true sound of the synth.


version 1.6 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 1-9% @ 2ghz / size 900KB

demo mp3 documentation download triforce download bundle (just $5!)

free download nes drums v1.2

toad

nes drums v1.2

toad is a drumkit based on the classic nintendo entertainment system. excellent quality percussive bits are here in abundance.version 1.1 adds a new graphical interface, and several performance enhancements.

version 1.2 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 1-3% @ 2ghz / size 1.8MB

demo mp3 documentation download toad download bundle (just $5!)

free download mellotron synthesizer v2.0

tapeworm

mellotron synthesizer v2.0

tapeworm is a mellotron-like synthesizer based on remastered versions of j.p. hovercraft's original mellotron multisamples. tapeworm includes five voice types, tuning, attack, release, and midi automation.

version 2.0 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 1-5% @ 2ghz / size 14MB

demo mp3 documentation download tapeworm download bundle (just $5!)

free synths to make bass bass synthesizer v1.0 download

ritual

bass synthesizer v1.0

ritual is an analog style bass synthesizer that uses several unique techiques to create a thick & rich sound. oscillator 1 is a blend of a pulse & crushed triangle, while oscillator 2 uses a custom designed super-saw blended with a crushed sine. the synthesizer also uses a custom designed cascade filter system with a feedback chain for adding analog warmth to the sound. lfo and envelope modulators can target 8 different parameters in both positives and negatives using the modulation matrix.

version 1.0 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 1-6% @ 2ghz / size 1.1MB

demo mp3 documentation download ritual download bundle (just $5!)

free step synthesizer v1.3 rebar

rebar

step synthesizer v1.3

rebar is a drawn waveform monosynth using mark andrews' step oscillator. simply draw your waveform using the sliders, create your envelope, and adjust the effects. both warp and delay effects have handy x/y based panels for live tweaking and automation crazyness. version 1.2 adds a truly drawable waveform panel (just drag your mouse across it), improved cpu performance, new patches, and better stability.


version 1.3 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 3-10% @ 2ghz / size 1MB

demo mp3 documentation download rebar download bundle (just $5!)

free download delaychain synthesizer v1.2 pippo

pippo

delaychain synthesizer v1.2

pippo is a unique synth based on an array of self-oscillating delay units controlled via a very simple interface. the resulting sounds vary from toy piano to plucked strings, and even some bell-like tones. it will detune a bit a the high & low ends of the scales due to the math used in the tuning curve. version 1.1 adds a nice filter option.


version 1.2 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 9-11% @ 2ghz / size 900KB

demo mp3 documentation download pippo download bundle (just $5!)

fre download nes synthezier v1.2 peach

peach

nes synthezier v1.2

peach is a synthesizer based on the classic nintendo entertainment system's psg audio system. more than 30 waveforms from many memorable sounds and tones have been meticulously deconstructed and tamed. version 1.1 adds a new user inferface, and some tuning issues have been resolved.

version 1.2 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 3-9% @ 2ghz / size 2.6MB

demo mp3 documentation download peach download bundle (just $5!)

free download mallet synthezier v1.1

papaya

mallet synthezier v1.1

papaya is a physically modelled mallet synthesizer. it features a nice chorus module, and does a very good job of simulating steel drums, and other carribean type percussion.

version 1.1 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 0-9% @ 2ghz / size 1MB

demo mp3 documentation download papaya download bundle (just $5!)

free download pad synthesizer v1.1 padawan

padawan

pad synthesizer v1.1

padawan is a hybrid synthesizer inteded for pad and ambient sound creation. the first oscialltor is analog style, while the second is based on wavetables. there are some nice modulation options, all synced to host tempo. for effects there is a nice stereo chorus and a simple reverb. version 1.05 fixes several outstanding bug and features a new set of stellar presets by proem. vu meters will return at a later date, once the fl studio issues are ironed out.

version 1.1 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 2-22% @ 2ghz / size 3.3MB

demo mp3 documentation download padawan download bundle (just $5!)

free download monophonic synthesizer v2.2 monomate

monomate

monophonic synthesizer v2.2

monomate is a monophonic synth designed to create retro sounding basslines and shrill leads. version 2.1 brings a new phase adjustable wave mix, the ever popular randomizer, and a nice knob for octive selection.


version 2.2 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 1-2% @ 2ghz / size 820KB

demo mp3 documentation download monomate download bundle (just $5!)

free download granular percussion v1.1 minerva

minerva

granular percussion v1.1

minerva is a granular generator for greating percussive sounds. there are 80 source wavelets for each channel, 40 short and 40 long. all short wave sources are velocity sensitive and all sources are pitch shiftable. each channel has a separate granular processor with pitch, size and rate paramters as well as random adjustors. finally a nice bitcrush rounds each channel off. white keys C-3 thru A-3 are the triggers. version 1.03 fixes several outstanding bugs.

version 1.1 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 2-6% @ 2ghz / size 2.7MB

demo mp3 documentation download minerva download bundle (just $5!)

free download ambience tool v1.2 field

field

ambience tool v1.2

field is a multisample based ambience generator. using original field recordings by twerk, field allows you to generate suitable backing ambience for any track. version 1.1 adds a new interface, more responsive EQ, and small performance enhancements.


version 1.2 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 12-13% @ 2ghz / size 20MB

demo mp3 documentation download field download bundle (just $5!)

free download granular sample cylcer v2.2

dropout

granular sample cylcer v2.2

dropout is a sample player that utilizes granular pitch shifting and sample slicing to play back a sample in new and unusual ways. the first row of sliders controls the actual playhead position in the sample at that step. the second row controls the coarse pitch, which is multiplied by the pitch variance setting at the top. the bottom row of toggles allows each individual slice to be reversed. all the other settings should be familiar from the breakdown, mashup, and sideslip effects.

version 2.2 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 1-9% @ 2ghz / size 1MB

demo mp3 documentation download dropout download bundle (just $5!)

carillon chime synthesizer v1.1

carillon

chime synthesizer v1.1

carillon is a physically modelled bell and chime synthesizer. the extreme far ends of the octives detune similar to pippo. it also features the chorus and reverb modules from padawan.


version 1.1 / released 10.24.06 / cpu load 0-10% @ 2ghz / size 950KB

demo mp3 documentation download carillon download bundle (just $5!)

free fl studio tutorials Simple side-chaining in FLStudio

Simple side-chaining in FLStudio

Side-chaining uses the dynamic level of another input to control the compression level of the signal. In music production it's main use serves to maintain a loud bass track, while still keeping the bass out of the way of the drums when the drums hit. Side-chaining is also used by disc jockeys to lower the music volume automatically when they speak (known as ducking).

You can easily have a lot of control over it with a frequency-specific compressor or simply by placing a filter before the compressor. This feeds a high-pass /low-pass filtered copy of the original signal into the side-chain input of the compressor so that volume reduction on the original signal only takes place when a specific frequency reaches a set volume threshold.



We will use: Fruity Peak Controller, Fruity Balance, Wasp (as a sound generator) and an FL Sampler with the Kick Drum sample.

1 - Insert a Kick Drum sample into an FL Sampler and add Wasp synth.

I made long bass notes in Wasp by selecting a good bass preset and increasing the AMP's decay (DEC) and sustain (SUS). You can try this preset:




2 - Make a pattern: The Kick on beats 1,2,3,4, and the bass playing in one long note.

3 - Route the Kick Drum to FX channel 3 and add the effect called “Fruity Peak Controller” to that FX channel.


- Do the same again with the Wasp bass synth but route it to FX channel 4 and add the effect “Fruity Balance”.

5 - Now select the “Fruity Balance” plugin. Right click on the ‘Volume’ knob. At the menu select “Link to controller...” and click on the 'Internal controller' drop-down menu and choose “Peak Control (Insert 3) - Peak”

At the ‘Mapping formula’section press the drop-down menu button and select ‘Inverted'. This reverses the direction of the signal.

The final result should be like this:


6 - Fine-tune the Peak Controller. You can copy the preset we ended up with below for now. The ‘Mute’ LED should also be turned off.

This will be our side-chaining controller. You can adjust it how you like it.

7 - Press PLAY and you should hear Bass altering with the kick drum. When the kick drum is playing the bass sound should drop in volume for till the kick stops playing. When kick is not playing, the bass is upfront.

This is basics to side chaining. There are a lot of ways to do this effect and there are many ways you can use it. Good luck.

Written by LiudasK. (dxginger).

How to Key-gate using the Peak Controller and Mute plugins fruity loops tutorials

How to Key-gate using the Peak Controller and Mute plugins

Heres a neat way to get one sound to sync to another using the volume coming through one FX channel (FX channel 3 here) as the source to control a mute plugin on another (FX channel 2).

Whenever a loud enough sound comes through on FX 3, the sound on FX 2 will be unmuted.

, Give the Gate Target its own FX channel.


, Give the Gate Source its own FX channel.


, Insert a 'Fruity Peak Controller' on the Gate Source's FX Channel.


The Peak Controller picks up the signal and converts the peaks of the volume into controller data which you can use elsewhere to push buttons and turn knobs. We will use the Peak Controller in this case to turn a simple mute on and off to give the effect known as 'Key Gating'.

4, There is a mute on the Fruity Peak Controller on the bottom right, if you want to be able to hear the source signal, turn this off.


5, Insert a 'Fruity Mute 2' plugin on the Target FX channel


, Link the Fruity Mute's ON/OFF knob to a Controller by right clicking and choosing 'Link to Controller...'


7, Click on Internal controller where it says '(none)'.


8, Choose 'Peak ctrl - Peak' from the menu.


9, Click OK.


10, Click Play and change the 'Base Level' to adjust it to swich ON&OFF when needed.


11, Change Peak Tension & Peak Decay Speed as needed.


12 , Don't forget you can send the notes from the source's step sequencer pattern to the piano roll for more accurate control.



fruity loops tutorials Hooking up Outboard MIDI Hardware to FLStudio

Hooking up Outboard MIDI Hardware to FLStudio

Here's a very short step-by-step introduction on connecting a hardware synth or sampler to your PC and setting FLStudio up. You'll profit from the combination of the hardware sound you've used to and the flexibility of FL Studio's sequencer.



1. First of all, make sure your synth is connected to your PC's MIDI interface.


2. Then, we need to tell FL Studio which MIDI interface to use. Open the MIDI settings by pressing F10 or enter it via the menu: Options -> MIDI settings.


3. You need to assign a port to the device you connected your external hardware with. Click the device, then click the "port" field below and select a port number by dragging your mouse up or down. From now on, FLStudio will know which MIDI interface it can send MIDI data to.


4. Create a MIDI out channel by clicking "Channels -> Add one -> MIDI Out".


5. Open the channel settings by clicking on the MIDI out channel. Set the port to to same number you've chosen before for your MIDI interface.


6. Play some notes. If you can't hear anything coming out of your synth, open the options menu and check whether "Enable MIDI ouput" is enabled. If it isn't, enable it.

7. It should work now. Really :)

fl studio tutorials Freezing Patterns / FX Channels Down to Wavs in the Audio Track Quickly

Freezing Patterns / FX Channels Down to Wavs in the Audio Track Quickly

This quick trick lets you choose the FX channels you want to render, then select the pattern(s) you want to render down to a wav file. This is then immediately auto-placed into the audio-track as an audio-clip, in the same chosen (highlighted) place in the song that you rendered.

- [To render this 4 bar synth pattern to an audio track]

Highlight one instance of the pattern on the playlist by 'double click+dragging' or holding Ctrl while dragging on the the black position bar at the top.




- We want to render this Simsynth pattern, and its routed to FX channel 1.

So go to the mixer and select FX channel 1 there.


- Click record on the bottom right.


- Name the file, maybe make a folder where your always gonna want to save recordings like this.

* * * Repeat steps 2-4 for each FX channel you wish to render down. If you just want wavs for every fx channel in use, use the file > export > 'Split mixer tracks' option in the dialog box. * * *

- Click here to get the mixer options menu up.


6 - Goto 'Disk Recording' and make sure 'Auto-create audio track' is checked.


- Click 'Render to file...' (Alt+R)


8 - Choose render settings and hit Go.


- An audio clip appears with an instance of it in the audio track!


10 - You can now disable any FX plugins or instruments that are no longer in use.



how to use fruity samplers settings? como usar los sampler de fl studio

Using the Fruity Samplers settings

This tutorial is gonna be on how you can turn an average bass sample into something that's actually usable in your productions. I am actually tilting the tables a bit to the more DnB side of things but don't worry cos you can learn a lot from this for any style you do anyway.

All the files you need for this are here in a zip, and also I will post the links to individual files as we go along.

Start by listening to this bass sample I picked up from the internet somewhere. Click here to download Bass-Original.zip containing the sample in .wav format.

Sounds pretty neat eh? But is it usable is the question. The answer is usually always no, not without a bit of fiddling and FX and whatever else.



1, OK, open FLStudio. File > New and delete any channels that are there. Go to Options > Project General Settings.


, Change the time signature to 8 bars (to give us a bit more room and that.)

3, OK, now that that's done. Click on the Sampler channel to bring up the channel settings and load in Bass-Original.wav, the bass sample.




4, Click on the INS tab in the channel settings window.

The tabs at the bottom are for the different types of envelopes we can apply to the sample. Click the 'Vol' one (volume envelope).


, OK, now before we start fiddling around with those little things, we'd better get some kind of a bass line going. So click piano roll in your shortcut bar to take you to the piano roll funnily enough :)

Select File > Open Score and open this score file (Simple.fsc) into it. Its just a simple example rhythm.




6, OK so now we have a rhythm to play while we're fiddling with the knobs, great.






7, OK, (...takes big drag of spliff...) so now we want to try and shape the sound the way we want it. There are 6 knobs we will need to know about.

DEL - This knob controls the delay of how long it should wait until kicking in the envelope.(Notice the nice graph we have as a visual aid).

ATT - This is the attack knob. It controls how much of a time you want for the sound to start and to reach its full level.

HOLD - Once the sound has reached its full level how long do you want to hold it there for until the decay kicks in.

DEC - This is the decay knob. Once the sound has reached its hold level, how long do you want it to take to decrease in volume until reaching zero.

SUS - How much do you want to sustain the sound once in the decay stage.

REL - After the note has stopped how long do you wish to continue for. This is the release of the envelope.

Now, this is what I set to get a nice attack and sudden decay with no release or sustain. Let's try this.


8, OK, play the sound. Seems OK. But we need some FX to spice it up!

Lets route the sample to FX slot 2. click and drag the upper right LED to 2.



, Press the FX shortcut button or hit F9 to get us to the mixer. We should be at FX2 by default, if not just click on it to see it.

Now we want to add an FX on here in FX2 so press the little arrow from the left of the window > select and insert the TK3 Band distortion plug-in which you can download from here (TK-3BandDisto.zip). If you don't know how to install VSTs check the tutorial back on the main tutorial page.

OK so now we've got a nice distortion on the sound. Let's fix up the values a bit to get a better, rougher sound.We have 3 vertical panels that effect the 3 ranges of our frequencies - Low, Mid and High (Low being the bass end of things and Mid / High being the harmonics.).

Change yours to this: (or grab the preset (TK3.fst))...


0, OK so now we've got a real ruff sound. Now I think we should EQ it to boost or take away certain frequencies of the sound. Add a Fruity Parametric EQ.

Now change your settings to this:

This is to cut off frequencies at the 500 range and to boost a little bit at 250. This is just what I came up with when listening to the loop to hear my tweaks in real time.


11, OK, great. However I think we should add a filter for the sound to pass through. So after the EQadd a Fruity Free Filter. Now I think we should add a High pass filter to cut off the frequencies at the level we set. Now 10Hz will only filter out the really low frequencies, however I use this so as when using automation we can really get that great techstep feeling. Try it out. Press Play and turn the Freq knob. If used right it can make great effects.




12, OK lets add a compressor now to keep the sound at the levels we want. Check out our compression tutorial from more on this. Let's try this preset.

OK great. Now let's put a compressor on the master channel just to give us a real feeling of how it should sound when its in a proper tune and also for when we add the second bass to keep things controlled.

And let's press play. Yeah, I think that's sounding good. But its still in need of some work...


3, Now I think the sounds need a little more bit more work on the envelope side of things. Lets make the cut-off work a bit more interesting by applying a cut-off envelope.

Select the CUT button in our channel settings window (in the INS tab). OK, so now let's apply an envelope.

Try this. By applying almost 50% of a difference (the AMT knob) we should get a great sound off the filter. Press play. Yeah, I think that's pretty good. But we need some Reverb to make it sound a bit more alive. Lets go to our Send1 (towards to right) channel in our FX window (F9).Insert a Fruity Reverb on the first slot and set these settings for a nice and active reverb.

Good stuff. Now go back to our FX channel 2 and put about less than half way on the Send1 knob.

Press play, sounds nasty alright ;) Now we add a sub bass to layer on top to give a fuller sound and its good for when we working with the Free Filter of the first bass to keep the sub going independently.



14, OK, add a new channel (Channels > Add One > Sampler). And load in this Sine wave. (Sine.zip). Now do the same with this as you done before loading in the score into the piano roll so we have both channels playing the same notes.

Note the volume knobs on the channels (First from left is the pan, and next to it is the volume knob).



, Now you can shape the volume envelope for the Sine wave to make it fit in place.Remember to change its FX channel to number cos we want to add a compressor on that channel.




16, Go to the mixer (keyb-F9) and select the FX channel you picked, (I choose 8).and add a compressor with the following preset.(SineComp.fst). This will smooth the sound down the sharp peaks in the sound and make the quieter sounds come out more.


17, And now press play! I think we're finished. Feel free to experiment. Try adding a fruity free filter to the sub bass channel or perhaps a bit of flange and reverb first! Now bring up the Free Filter from the first bass and experiment with a beat in the background. Here's a short example mp3

And that's one way you can use the sampler settings to make a good bass :)


FLStudio Keyboard and Mouse Shortcuts free tuotorials

FLStudio Keyboard and Mouse Shortcuts

Fruityloops keyboard shortcuts, commands and mouse tips ordered out into logical sections. (Some keystrokes are duped where appropriate)

FILE OPERATIONS:

  • Ctrl+O Open
  • Ctrl+S Save
  • Ctrl+Shift+S Save as...
  • Ctrl+N Save new version
  • Ctrl+R Export Wave File
  • Ctrl+shift+R Export MP3 File
  • Ctrl+shift+M Export MIDI file
  • Ctrl+M Open Score
  • Alt+1...8 Open recent file 1...8

Record/Playback Control

  • Space Start & stop playback
  • LSwitch between pattern and song mode
  • R Switch on/off recording
  • 0 (numpad) Fast forward
  • / (numpad) Previous bar (song mode only)
  • * (numpad) Next bar (song mode only)
  • Ctrl+H Stop sound (Sound Panic)
  • Ctrl+T Toggle Typing keyboard to piano keyboard
  • Ctrl+B Toggle Blend Notes
  • Ctrl+M Toggle Metronome
  • Ctrl+I Toggle Wait for input to start playing

Pattern Selection

  • F4 Next Empty pattern
  • 1..9 (numpad) Select patterns 1-9
  • Numpad + Next pattern
  • Numpad - Previous pattern
  • Right Arrow Next pattern
  • Left Arrow Previous pattern

Window Navigation

  • Tab Cycles windows within program
  • Enter Shows/hides/maximises/minimises playlist
  • Esc Closes a window
  • F5 Shows/hides playlist
  • F6 Shows/hides Step Sequencer
  • F7 Shows/hides Piano Roll
  • F8 Shows/hides Sample Browser
  • F9 Shows/hides FX
  • F10 Shows/hides MIDI Settings window
  • F11 Shows/hides Song Info window
  • F12 Close all windows
  • Ctrl+shift+H Arrange windows

Step Sequencer

  • F6 Shows/hides step sequencer
  • 1...0 Mutes/Unmutes first ten channels
  • Ctrl+1...0 Solos/Unsolos first ten channels
  • Up Arrow Select Previous channel
  • Down Arrow Select Next channel
  • Shift+Left Shift notes backward one step (for selected channel(s)).
  • Shift+Right Shift notes forward one step (for selected channel(s)).
  • Ctrl+del Delete selected channel
  • Alt+G Group selected channels
  • Alt+Z Zip/Collapse selected channels (useful for layers)
  • Alt+U Unzip selected channers
  • Alt+Up Arrow Move Selected channel up
  • Alt+Down Arrow Move Selected channel down
  • Page Up Next Channel Filter Group
  • Page Down Previous Channel Filter Group
  • Ctrl+X Cut channel note data
  • Ctrl+C Copy channel note data
  • Ctrl+V Paste channel note data
  • Ctrl+Shift+C Clone selected channel(s)
  • Alt+R Randomize
  • Alt+H Humanize (Not in V4)
  • Alt+P Send to Piano Roll
  • K Show Keyboard Editor
  • G Graph Editor
  • Shift + Right click on channel names to change the names
  • Ctrl + Left click on the channel name to hear the sound produced by the channel

Play List

  • F5 Shows/hides Play List
  • Ctrl+Shift+Ins Insert Pattern (before selected pattern)
  • Ctrl+Shift+Del Delete Selected Pattern
  • Ctrl+Shift+C Clone Selected Pattern
  • Ctrl+Del Delete Pattern
  • Alt+Up Arrow Move selected pattern up
  • Alt+Down Arrow Move selected pattern down
  • Alt+P Edit selected pattern in piano roll / Send to piano roll
  • Backspace Center playback grid around song position
  • Right click on black "Pattern XX" areas to set pattern names.
  • Double click in area between pattern 1 and the bar numbers to set the song to loop on one bar.

Combinations of patterns can be cut / copied / pasted by setting the song to loop on one bar by double clicking and dragging at the top of the playlist then using cut / copy / paste keystrokes or holding Ctrl and dragging there.

Right clicking between pattern 1 and the bar numbers sets the repeat point (the point where playback returns to when the last bar in the song has been played).

Channel Settings

  • Enter/Return Plays Current Sample. (same as left clicking on sample display)
  • Left arrow Cycles through SMP INS MISC FUNC.
  • Right arrow Cycles through SMP INS MISC FUNC.
  • Right click on title bar to set channel name.
  • Right click on Del/Att/Hold/Dec/Sus/Rel dials to set values in steps.
  • Double click on the FX send digit to view/edit FX in that FX channel.
  • Right click on Stretch digits to quick set a coarse value.
  • Left click on grey area above the keyboard in the Channel Settings to set limits on hi/lo playback pitch.
  • Right click on grey area above keyboard to set the key that plays the sample at its original pitch.

Remember you can automate the type of chords played by FLStudio's channel arpegiator (this is tricky; bit of a blind/trial-and-error process)

  • Mixer
  • Alt + C View controls
  • Alt + N View Names
  • Alt + R Render selected disc recording enabled tracks to wave file
  • Ctrl + L Link selected channels to this track
  • ALT + L Select linked channels
  • S Solo
  • Left arrow View next track
  • Right arrow View previous track

Misc Tricks

  • Right click on tempo for quick tempo selection or tempo options
  • Right click on empty panel space to turn individual panels on/off
  • Tiny switch next to CPU/Output Monitor turns it on/off.
  • Right click all over the the panels at the top for more! :)
  • Right click on empty panel space to turn individual panels on/off
  • The tiny switch next to CPU/Output Monitor turns it on/off.

To make this reference instantly accessible within FLStudio, download this file and do the following:

  • 1. Goto Tools >Add external tool.
  • 2. Click on the Folder Button next to the "File Location" box.
  • 3. In the "Browse for tool..." requester browse for the folder that contains the FLStudio-Keyboard-Commands.html file".
  • 4. You will not be able to see the file until you type "*.txt" into the "File Name" box and hit return.
  • 5. Double click on the "FLStudio-Keyboard-Commands.html" file.

Now "FLStudio-Keyboard-Commands.html" will appear on the "Tools" Menu and you can launch it without having to leave Fruityloops.

how to add fx effects in a proyect using fl studio tutorials free

Basics: 5, Adding FX (Effects)

This'll show you how to get vsts and directX plugins into your track so you can mash up dem soundz like the propa rude boy you always thought you were!


, All you have to do is click on the relevant channel (instrument) that you want to add FX to...



, Then, its property box (channel settings) should open, in the right hand corner is a light green shaded box. Route your instrument to an FX channel (by dragging it up),.


, Now open the FX window by either double clicking the light green box, or using the shortcut panel shown below. (Keyboard shortcut: F9)

The FX window (shown below) will now open.

, OK, click on the arrow to the left of a slot, like in the picture above, and add an effect (VST or DX).


, Choose one from the list, or if the one you want isn't listed as a favorite, choose "More..." for a list of the rest of the plugins found on your system (You might need to point Fruityloops to your VST plugins folder in the folder options, (shortcut = F10 then click on 'File' on the left.))


, Now edit your plugin while playing, experiment and see what sounds you can create, it's more fun creating than just loading a sample. Particuarly effective is adding delay to a TB404, or adding chorus to a lacklustre bass synth.

Another great effect is to slowly build up a couple of synths in tandem, use a filter, automate the cutoff frequency and band pass, this is one of the best things about Fruityloops, automating, which put simply, just means recording knob and fader movements or editing them manually to move in time...


The Lowdown:

You have 16 FX channels in Fruityloops v3, and 64 in FL Studio v4+, each FX channel can hold 8 plugins in series (one after the other). FLStudio v4 introduced a wet/dry knob to the right of each plugin slot, so you can now mix as much or as little as you like of the effect in to the mix. It also has a master channel and 4 sends. And if thats not enough, you can send the OUT of one FX channel to the input of another fx channel to add another 8 FX plugins there!

One thing to really remember about using FX plugins, is to always make sure all your plugins are using a feature called 'smart disable', which is an option to have the plugins automaticlly turn off when they are not in use, which can save a massive amount of CPU power. This can be activated for each plugin indivually in the options list from a button on the top left of your plugin or, better still, in the mixers options (top left button) there is a 'Switch smart disable for all' which makes sure all the plugins that are loaded are using this feature - If your still using Fruityloops v3, you will find this option in Tools / misc macros / switch smart disable for all. v4 and 5 now have it in the plugins menu.

Basics: 4, Adding VSTi, DXi and Fruity instruments How to add instruments to your project.

Basics: 4, Adding VSTi, DXi and Fruity instruments

How to add instruments to your project fl studio

1, Goto [Channels > Add one] then select a generator plugin (synth) from the favourites, (or choose [More...] and hit refresh if you installed a new one) and select your generator plugin (synth) from the list.


2, Once insterted, it will apear in the Step Sequencer


3, Another place you can find the same menu is by right clicking on an existing channel, and then going to Insert channel. (This is exactly the same list as above.)

how to install virtual instruments vsti dxi and effect plugins in fl studio tutorials free

Basics: 3, Installing Instruments (VSTi,DXi) and FX Plugins (VST,DX)

I won't go into much detail about installing Direct-X plugins or synths as its very straight forward, they will all come with their own install package, and most likely, the only option you will get is where you want to install it, which dosn't matter with DX plugins as all the locating work is done in the registry. VSTs and VSTis all need to be installed to the same folder. (Or any subfolder within it.)


like other VST/VSTi enabled programs, Fruityloops is no different, it has a folder for its plugins, you'll find it at [C:\Program Files\FruityLoops\Plugins\VST].

But, seems as though most plugin install packages default to [C:\Program Files\Steinberg\VSTPlugins], I suggest you install them there and just tell Fruityloops in the options where to look...

1, So, first off, go to [Options > File Settings] on the menu.



, Then click the folder image to choose the right folder. (If C:\Program Files\Steinberg\VSTPlugins] does not exist, just create the folders manually before you do this step.)

Once set, close the options window.


3, Now when you get an FX plugin (VST) or a Synth/Generator plugin (VSTi), all you will have to do is make sure you specify the above location to install it to when it asks. If it doesn't have an install program and comes as a .zip or .rar file containing a .dll file, then all you need to do is extract the .dll file over to "C:\Program Files\Steinberg\VSTPlugins\"

4, FLStudio will now find it when you click refresh at the bottom of the list.

(This refresh button appears at the bottom of the "Channels > Add one > More..." list, or when you add FX to a mixer slot from the same list that appears when you click "Select > More". But theres more explanation on adding plugins in the next two pages!)

FL STUDIO tutorial The Piano Roll and Recording Notes to it

Basics: 2 The Piano Roll and Recording Notes to it

In the Piano Roll is used to record,draw in and edit notes, similar to a MIDI editor in any host.

You can compose chords, import scores/MIDI data, draw in individual notes, change pan, and volume of each note, etc in the Piano R


, Move on to Pattern No.3 by clicking and draging the led up / down

2, Right click on an instrument and move to 'Piano roll'.


, A grid will be presented with a keyboard along the right. This is the Piano Roll, click on it to make some notes and drag the ends to change the sizes, then play it!, not so difficult!!?


4, Use the slide feature if you want to drop a note to a diffrent pitch over time. (Aslong as the instrument your using supports it.)


, Check out some of the available tools.


6, Double click and drag on the black timeline to select and loop a section, so that you can preview a smaller section when you press play.


, Double click and drag on the black timeline to select and loop a section, so that you can preview a smaller section when you press play.

7, Edit the velocites (Hit volume) and Panning positions (balance) of notes to give variation.

, If your a little more adventurous, you can record these notes in from your MIDI keyboard by simply setting your keyboards in port to the 'MIDI in' in the options.


, Or use the qwerty keyboard to play notes!. (Handy for previewing things.)


10, You may need to set a lower latency to be able to record from the keyboard without strange time delays. To set your latency, choose 'Audio settings' from the options pull down menu.


11, Use ASIO if you have it!!


12, Set buffer size (latency). You might find using 'polling' and/or the hardware buffer gets you get a faster latency if you don't have ASIO on your soundcard. If you don't have ASIO, try and set the buffer legnth to the lowest you can get it without getting 'underruns'. (Value shows bottom left.) 20ms - 60ms is about average for directsound cards.

Decent ASIO capable sound cards are far better if your really intrested in making music, the latency is gets more important if your trying to record in sounds using a keyboard as it will feel out of sync all the time if the sound is lagging behind your actual hitting of the keys!


13, Now click on the record button then play notes to your hearts content then press stop. It has now recorded these notes to the piano roll! You can play along to other music, then match it up to tempo later using the SCALE feature! You could litrally record for ages along to some CD and go back after you got something you liked recorded and cut it out to use in your tune.


14, Make use of the countdown if you need it,

or 'wait for input',

And metronome (Right click it to change sound)

These all make it easier to time the recording. You might find it easier to reduce the tempo before you record to make it easier to be more accurate on beat and how you want the timing.

Try right clicking most buttons in fruityloops, you will usually find something!

You don't have to record everything first time, practice first playing with your song before you set record into Fruityloops. (Pressing CTRL+A then DELETE will quickly delete all the notes if you don't like the first take. Also you can do Ctrl+X if your in the stepsequencer.)


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A DJ Setup for Beginners tutoriales para principiantes dj y tecnicas en pro dj

This is our first article in our DJ Tips and Techniques series of articles for the Beginning and Pro DJ. In this article we discuss the basic DJ setup, equipment choices and other issues.

for those of you starting out in the realm of DJing, it's time to make a decision. Before making the mistake of over or under buying the gear you'll need, you've got to ask, is this business or personal.

We'll get to specific qualities soon enough, but first: the basic DJ setup.

The components include:

  • Decks
  • Mixer, at least 2 channels
  • Amplifier
  • Speakers
  • Media Library
Decks
Right now, the only two real choices, outside of Computer DJ setups, are Turntables or CD Players. CD systems are great, they provide long life, they're highly portable and have the highest sound quality available. CD decks generally run $500US and above, whereas decent direct drive turntables run as low as $150US a piece. Click here for a listing of quality Numark turntables and features.

Mixers
You can get by with a 2 channel mixer to start, but we recommend starting with at least a 3 or 4 channel mixer--especially if you'll have use for a mic. Professional mixers use 4 channels - one for a mic and 3 more for cd players or turntables. Make sure that the mixer offers a phono/line if you want to use turntables. Decent mixers can be purchased from around $200US. Click here for a small list of Mixers, prices and features.

Speakers & Amplifiers The most import feature of your system? Your sound projection component. When you're ready to spin for an audience, ditch those headphones and buy yourself some decent speakers and a capable amp. The genreal rule of thumb when buying amps and speakers: Make sure the RMS power rating for your speakers is about half the RMS rating for the amplifer you want to buy. Keep this in mind and make sure your amp doesn't clip--you'll never blow your speakers. Your Amp/Speaker setup will most likely be your most expensive piece of this puzzle, and you may want to hold off initially and stick with a good set up headphones until you're really committed to the DJ effort.

Media Library
Depending on your decks, turntables or CD players, you'll need a collection of albums to tie your system together. Vinyl is inexpensive, and there are tons of new/used Vinyl shops online where you can pick up albums dirt cheap. You can also find CD/Record pools where you can receive new albums from artists to add to your collection. Check back with internetdj.com in the coming weeks, for a presentation of how to get your media cheap, and the best places to buy your vinyl and CDs.

Remember, before you buy, make sure you're committed to the expense and to the challenge ahead of you. It's frustrating starting out, and you need to stay focused and you must practice as much as you can. Stay with internetdj as we discuss beginning techniques like beat-matching, to get you on your way.

DJ Tips & Techiniques: Scratching

n this brief article, we comment on some of the most popular topics, how to scratch, how not to scratch and the technique involved.


As we all know, the turntable can be used as a percussive instrument, ie, scratching. One of the uses of scratching is for fills between different lines or parts in a song. The scratch sound can also be heard as the lead in many song parts.


Playing the Basic Scratch


1. Place your record on a slip-mat on the platter of your turntable.

2. Start your record spinning on the platter by pressing the start/stop button on your turntable.

3. Carefully place the stylus at the beginning of the track and make sure your hear some white noise for a moment.

4. Press the start/stop button again to stop the record and place your first three fingers on the record. Slowly drag the record back and forth. Keep it smooth at first so you get the sound and the arc motion right. When you get the hang of it, start moving your hands faster and in different rythms. Sound good?

Remember, start by using continuous noise, such as white noise. Once you begin to get a good rythm down, pick out a sound effect or spoken word to scratch over. Once you're at this point, you're well on your way to mixing your scratch technique with your favorite songs.

A warning, scratching is moving the record while the needle is IN THE GROOVES, not moving the needle itself across the record. You'll kill your records and needle.

The Secrets of DJ Prone’s Studio Revealed

Ever wonder how top DJs make their music? Want to know the tools of the trade? In this article, DJ Prone reveals what he uses to make his music plus you can listen to two complete MP3s by DJ Prone.

DJ Prone, AKA, Nathan Boon has been making music for 7 years now. In the early years he was known as ‘Digital Distortion’. He specialised, then in the Happy Hardcore, Rave, Drum ‘n’ Bass and Jungle scene. Making, semi-amateur sounds and poor quality samples! In 1997 he reformed his-self and renamed himself to his current position of DJ Prone. He dropped the poor quality ‘Hardware’ and entered ‘Software’ producing……..where he is today!

Many people may think, ‘Hardware is best in producing’ but no, not DJ Prone, he believes software is the future.

“What’s the point on spending thousands of pounds on hardware that you can get for free on the computer, plus you can configure software samples etc more than hardware……….Its good enough for Paul van Dyk, so its good enough for me!”

Although he believes this, he has the obvious hardware mechanisms such as: Keyboards; Graphics Equalisers; and his beloved Turntables.

Nowadays, DJ Prone’s specialist genres in music are, Trance, Hard House, Techno and just a hint of Happy Hardcore remains.

The main piece of equipment DJ Prone uses is, ‘Modplug Tracker’, this is a 0 to 64-channel tracker, which he creates all of his tunes on. This is one of the great trackers available and it is very cheap to get hold of – free infect, download it here.


Features of the 'Modplug Tracker'

Filter cut off, resonance and mode. Effect Parameters #0, #1, #2, #3. Set Speed, Position Jump, Pattern Break, Volume Slide, Vibrato, Pamrello, Arapeggo etc, etc…




MAGIX Mixer

All DJ Prone uses the MAGIX Mixer for is to get everything sounding right, equalising voices correctly and adding some reverb. This is a 16-channel software mixer, with record, reverb and pan capabilities.



Cool Edit

Cool Edit is the main sample creation software DJ Prone uses, like a normal synthesizer but different effects can be added. Without this DJ Prone would be stuck on creating tunes.






Apart from the turntables, Keyboard, and Hardware mixers etc, that is DJ Prone’s Studio.

How to bettter synth sound in fl studio tutorials¿

Need a Better Synth Sound In Fruity Loops?


This article discusses one member's method of getting a better synth sound out of the 3xOsc in Fruity Loops.

OK, firstly if you looking for a good harsh euro sound turn all oscilattors to sawtooth ( one that looks like a saw tooth lol). once you have this basis lower the crs on each oscialattor, and slightly increase the fine levls. also with the small nobes SP & SD tweak them so they are facing the opposite sides. and have the last osc inverted.

then in the SMP tab pick the wav file Vowel A.

then in the INS, pick Vol and minimise all attack, all delay, all hold, leave sustain up all the way and release just a little so it creates a right angle triangle. then also do this with Cut and leave resolution and pitch the way it is.

put the LFO filter as LP, or Fast LP, and leave the LFO on wave.

if u want to create a arpegiator jus go to the FUNC tab and choose the echo/delay mode you want.

After this you can then go about adding reverrb, delay, and also a flange and maybe a phaser. also on the paramateic EQ turn up both end sides and slightly turn up the middle ones.

then it is time to make a melody with this extreme synth. use this using different synth shapes and different tweakes and you should pick up what does what.

How to Create a DnB Bassline in Fruity Studio tips

Here's a tip as to how to make those low rolling basslines that we hear in drum and bass tunes all the time. This applies to fruity studio.

Get a nice low bass tone. Open it as a sample. Now set loops points on the wav. This can be done with the "crf" knob. Engage the knob and set the points over a nice area, as this'll be the area that creates the overall bass tone.

Now on playing the note, you'll hear that its a continuos monotone. Key notes can be easily manipulated in the fruity keyboard. *important* to shut a note off, simply play the note again, but silence it, ie. velocity = 0.

To add some nice wubb! to the bass line, select INS on channel sttings, and mess with the fast LP filter. Set cut to (estimate) 10 o'clock and res to 3 o'clock. Then select the CUT option for the LFO. Set the amt and speed to the desired wubbing noise. ie amt = how much wub, speed = how many wubs.

And there you go, it takes a little practice to control these knobs, but its fun and easy once you give it a go and find your feel. the cool thing is you can also do a wubbing solo and record it, and fruity will memorise that knob, and you can go back and do some more shit. Its crazy isn't it? But its cool and you know it.

How To: Create Cutting-Edge DnB Beats

When I create a Drum 'N Bass beat I start with a simple idea created in a drum pattern sequencer, split up into 4/4 at 16 hits per measure and a BPM of around 160 - 180bpm. Feel free to go lower or higher and experiment, but if it's too slow it becomes trip-hoppish or breakbeat and if it is too high it tends to sound like break core.

Details
Place a good Kick drum sound at the first and eleventh beat in each measure. I like to use a punchy acoustic/live kick drum. Try to stay away from the technoish 909 and 808 drum sounds. Try to find some really unique ones. You can place others hits as the measures progress. Try changing between the third, seventh and ninth hit.

As for snares, pick one that will stand out and try pitching it up a tad and adding a slight reverb. I usually start with the fifth and thirteenth hits. You should also try adding a few ghost beats, that is, drums with velocity changes to add percussion to the beat. I also change it up by adding snares on different patterns generally switching between the eighth, tenth, and fifteenth hits, mostly the tenth on the fourth pattern.

Percussion can be a trick getting them to stand out yet at the same time, not drowning out anything else in the track. Try adding slight reverb and panning to keep it out of the way from the main groove.

With high-hats, create two patterns for the hats (more if needed). One should just pull the beat together; just mix in with the groove and experiment with different sets of hats and different positioning. The second high-hat should be in double time, that is, faster and driving for after the first drop.

With congas, bongos and other percussion, these should also be split into two gooves as with the high hats. One for the main beat and one for energy and drive.

Other than that, you should get a good sub-bass drum and use it to accentuate the main kick-line. Remember to not overdo it. Tone it down and keep it from interfering with the bassline.

Then you can search for choice breakbeats and slice 'em up in your favorite chopper. I recommend using the slicers in Acid or Reason. I prefer them over the fuity slicer. In Reason, I like to let the loop run, then go into the editor and add hats, snares and kicks in a neat and new style. This gives it a new appeal by changing some of the velocities of the slices.

For added fun: in Reason with the dr.rex loop player try changing the lfo on the loop player. Move the rate all the way to the left and the amount all the way to the right or at about 3 o'clock-ish. Then change the destination to filter and the wave form to the next to last. Now hit record and as the song plays you can switch the destinations from filter, to pan and oscillator. Then after you lay that funky trash down, adjust the filter levels and other knobs and isht.

To fade the beat in, start with the amp envelope attack turned all the way up and then drag it down to acquire the fade or perform the opposite to fade it out.

Hope this helps some people! If anybody has any other questions about DnB production, PM me, I am willing to spill a little more info.

For some sweet drum samples of all types that are damned good quality go to: Meanbeat. For those of you trying to create DnB in Fruity Loops Studio 4, go to FL DnB Tutorial.

Much love to the DNB scene.

How To: Arrange Professional Hip-Hop Tracks

often make hip-hop beats for my rap and free-style friends. When I first start out creating a hip-hop beat, I study the rythym from groups like Three-six Mafia, Twiztid, and the darker, more undergound lot (cuz 3-6 has some bomb-ass beats) or even Bustah Rhymes; those three are very different styles.

Tip 1:
Verses

The beat is made based on how the verse will be spit. Say they want to rap fast, yet also make it seem faster, make the bass hit slowly in the beat (for example Mystikal); or in the case where they want to spit 2-5 word patterns, speed up the beat giving the vocal more intensity (as done in many DMX tracks).

Tip 2: BPM

The range I have found works best is anywhere from 83 - 113 BPM. Keep your rhythym within that range.

Tip 3: The Beat

You can take a simple DNB break (Entity's "How to" on DnB Beats)and slow it down; then add some kicks and snares to add to the groove and fill up space in the lower tempo environment. Remember to add variation with the drums because in general, hip-hop beats are pretty damned repetitive! Also add some claps and hats to supplement the overall groove and rhythym. Feel free to experiment with other percussive sounds and perhaps some backbeats, etc.

Tip 4: The Bass

Add a nice bass groove should not be too difficult. Try a sub-808 sound and loop it (for FruityLoops users, use the CRF knob), then add to the piano roll (again for FruityLoops users) and experiment with the sub-bass groove over the drum rhythym. Make sure the bass and beat blend well together. Don't get frustrated, this portion takes a long time to perfect and requires some degree of musicality. For a tutorial, take a look at How to Create a Rolling DNB sub Bassline in FL Studio.

Tip 5: Ambience, Melody, Background Groove

The background is all up to you. You could go with the eerie classical approach (like 3 - 6 Mafia), the gangsta style jazzy piano (like in many of Mobb Deep's tracks), or even the hard rock guitars that have been used by everyone from Public Enemy to Esham and Twiztid.

You might want to have some strings, plucked guitars or other ambience. Remember, don't overkill the background; the main parts of a hip-hop rhythym are the beat, the bass, and the vocals. Melody is not really a necessity, but this doesn't mean you can't have one. With hip-hop, the star of the show is the MC. Don't drown him/her out.

Tip 6: Arrangement

When it comes to a hip-hop or pop track, it contains these basic segments within the entire arrangement:

1=Intro
2=Verse
3=chorus
4=break
5=close

The trick is, where do you put these parts and what do you do to each part to make it distinct?

Naturally, you would want to start with an intro. Then you bring the track up to speed and into the first verse. After that, change to the chorus. The chorus, or "hook", is where you have your catchy repeitition that will sell your track. It is often repeated several times in a track and often includes a pre-recorded vocal track that will be laid down into the instrumental. Like that Outkast song "Hey Ya" -- the chorus is the pre-recorded vocal singing of those words "Hey Ya"; over and over again. In other words, this part generally establishes the theme of the track. After the first chorus you may want to add a slight breakdown to the track and lead it into the second verse. The second verse should be slightly different in comparison to the first verse but should also maintain the same groove, theme, and rhythym. After that, add your chorus, then verse, then chorus, then close/outro. Be sure to add breaks where appropriate, depending on your musical tastes.

How to Create a DnB Bassline in Fruity Studio tutorials fl studio tutorials

Here's a tip as to how to make those low rolling basslines that we hear in drum and bass tunes all the time. This applies to fruity studio.

Get a nice low bass tone. Open it as a sample. Now set loops points on the wav. This can be done with the "crf" knob. Engage the knob and set the points over a nice area, as this'll be the area that creates the overall bass tone.

Now on playing the note, you'll hear that its a continuos monotone. Key notes can be easily manipulated in the fruity keyboard. *important* to shut a note off, simply play the note again, but silence it, ie. velocity = 0.

To add some nice wubb! to the bass line, select INS on channel sttings, and mess with the fast LP filter. Set cut to (estimate) 10 o'clock and res to 3 o'clock. Then select the CUT option for the LFO. Set the amt and speed to the desired wubbing noise. ie amt = how much wub, speed = how many wubs.

And there you go, it takes a little practice to control these knobs, but its fun and easy once you give it a go and find your feel. the cool thing is you can also do a wubbing solo and record it, and fruity will memorise that knob, and you can go back and do some more shit. Its crazy isn't it? But its cool and you know it

Tutorial: FruityLoops and Advanced Elements fl studio tutorials

This is a brief FruityLoops tutorial that covers such advanced topics as automation, effects and mastering tips.

Upon reading this I believe that you are a fruityloop user, and have basic knowledge of creating simple songs, understanding the use of piano roll, playlist and so on. This little article hopes to give you a little tips to more advanced stuff in fruityloop like automation, fx and also what to take note of when producing tracks in fruityloop.

Firstly, we start off with automation. Automation is an increament (or decrease) or a knob, which can be controlling anything, like filter LP, volume, panning and so on. So what is the role of automation in a piece of music? With automation, it gives the music life, as things like drumbeats, bassline could be rather straight and boring. A little automation will bring these dead elements to life.

Next comes effects. Effects is an essiential element when producing in fruityloop. Effects will give you sounds that you want, ranging from basslines to strings. However, you'll need to understand how each fx works, and how each will affect one another. FX roles are to make midi sounding melodies to sound like a synth. Giving it depth, power, bass or watever that is you are looking for. However, understanding FX is impossible to be said in a tutorial, you'll have to try it yourself.

Finally, here are a few things to note during production. When producing a track, sitting infront on your computer and throw in whatever melody and ideas into the track in 6 hours is what most of us would have done. However, after you've completed, did you realised that your track seem to lack of quality when you listen to it once more? Well, here's a tip to make sure while in production, you still can hear the quality of your track.

Remember, after every 20 - 30 min, listen to other songs, done by professionals. Or you might want to occasionally play the track on your winamp to here the way they did their mastering. Once you go back to you fruityloop song, you'll realise how bad the quaility is, and you'll be able to fine tune each element while producing, which would make your mastering workload lesser.

Hope this helps to all those fruityloop users. Believe it or not, fruityloop is a great program for starters and players. But if you want to be in the league, you would have to create your own samples using VST, or progress to better software like Cubase SX or Reason.

AmbiLoop Review and Free Download

What is it?
AmbiLoop basically functions like a multi-track endless audio tape loop or digital delay box with feedback. Simply set the desired loop time for a track and press the record button. Incoming audio is recorded in real time for the length of the loop. Recording continues seamlessly as the loop repeats and the previously recorded audio begins playing back at a Volume set by the feedback control.

You can also grab a single loop on the fly with the Insert Record feature. AmbiLoop will play up to eight tracks simultaneously.

AmbiLoop Features

· Stereo and mono loop recording and playback.
· Play up to eight loops simultaneously.
· MIDI Control of nearly all software commands.
· Mix-to-track allows realtime mixdown of up to 7 tracks to an 8th track.
· Multimode filter and reverb for non-destructive effect processing.
· Seamless recording through loop end-to-beginning transition.
· Loop times up to 100 seconds or more (memory limited).
· Set loop point while recording.
· Instant multiply doubles loop length.
· Load and save loops as .wav files.
· Load and save Session, remembers loop, track and effect settings.
· Load and save Configuration, remembers user preferences.
· Solo and Mute available per-track.
· Set loop times by tempo and measure.
· Insert Record allows a loop to be captured on the fly.
· Metronome available in play and/or record.
· Record and play in reverse, switch directions any time.
· Undo last recording.
· Half speed recording & playback.
· Multiple sample rates supported (depends on audio card).
· Input and output device selection.
· Adjustable latency time.

AmbiLoop Review
Installation was simple, I just downloaded and unzipped it. That’s it. The first great thing about this program is that it’s a Freeware. It a Win32 Application so you just have to double click on the Program Icon after unzipping and the Program starts right up.

At first glance, the program has a logical layout that provides a cut-and-dry feel. You might compare it to Live 3.0, but after taking a closer look, you will soon see it as a completely different program With many options that Live doesn’t offer yet.

Importing .wav files is a snap:
File> Load Loop > Track (you want to load the sample in)
Ex. File > Load Loop > Track 1

Instant Reverse on any audio track is one of its best features. Another great feature is the Filter Effect. It can be controlled On the fly, and in a live setting, each track has Solo & Mute options. I also like the fact that you can Resize the program window. For Remixing, you can convert MP3 tracks To wav and then mix them into AmbiLoop with additional samples.

Where to Get It
You can download AmbiLoop for free at http://evenfall.com/ambiloop.

How to EQ your Bassline and Kicks Properly fl studio tutorials

This tutorial uses FLStudio (FruityLoops) as the base software, however, the concepts can be applied similarly to any sequencer or studio equipment. Many of the problems encountered when producing tracks lie in the clarity of the beats and the basslines. An important question to keep in mind: how do I seperate my kick and bass when they are both on the low-end? Seperating these sounds allows for greater clarity and a more professional sounding track.

For DnB, the bassline is much more on the low-end than the kick, Therefore, we have to set this in our mixer. First, punch the kick to one channel in the mixer (please be sure to mark that channel "kick" to avoid confusion). Then, apply a "BassBoost" to the kick channel and set the frequency to be in between 60Hz and 80Hz.

Next, set the parametric eq on the kick channel as follows:
1) Set EQ Band 1 Level to -18db
2) Set EQ Band 1 Freq to 10 Hz

Our kick channel eq should then have a very slight dip in the 'left' hand side of the eq. This allows for our bassline to 'cover' that portion while still 'kicking' it out in the other frequency. Next, punch the bassline to a different channel (be sure to mark channel this as bass). The, apply a "BassBoost" to that channel and set the frequency to be in between 75 and 95 Hz.

For the parametric eq, it is advised that the response be 'flat', but we are allowed to tweak it in accordance to our sound (which is very important). Now this should seperate your bass and kick, however, nothing beats good ol' fashioned monitoring (again and again), and the tweaking of our freq and eq accordingly to taste.

For Dance music, it is almost the exact opposite because we want the kick to be more on the low-end than the bass. As such, the attributes applied to the kick in the above example should be applied to the bassline and vice versa.

I hope this is useful! Keep making quality choonz idj's!! - DJ cLArt

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http://www.f6.co.nz/artificial/index.htm
http://www.samplecity.net/index.html
http://www.modarchive.com/waveworld/synths.shtml
http://www.killerbeats.com/
http://www.beatsandsamples.com/
http://www.acidfanatic.com/
http://www.analogindustries.com/
http://www.superloops.com/default.htm
http://www.a1freesoundeffects.com/
http://www.acapella-heaven.tk/
http://www.breakbeatsonly.com
http://www.futurewaveshaper.com/
http://www.audioattack.de/
http://www.audiomelody.com/Samples.htm
http://www.bassculture.org/
http://www.bassquake.co.uk/
http://www.slickmedia.com/super/index2.html
http://www.brothercake.com/links/sample.php
http://www.discretedrums.com/
http://www.djzx.com/Music/Samples/
http://www.drumsamples.com/
http://www.echovibes.com
http://www.findsounds.com/
http://www.fleximusic.com/links/links.htm
http://tools.coffeecup.com/Free_Sounds/
http://www.funk-station.co.uk/links.htm
http://www.garritan.com/
http://www.housemuzak.com/housemuziq/samples.html
http://www.analoguesamples.com/
http://www.loopsagogo.com/
http://www.loopwise.com/musicloops.htm
http://machines.hyperreal.org/samples
http://www.phatdrumloops.com/old_site/
http://www.primesounds.com/prime2/home.jhtml
http://www.cobwebaudio.co.uk/sample_archives/
http://www.sounduser.com/links/samplesdownload.cfm
http://bbrunoo.free.fr/samples-wav/samples.html
http://www.geocities.com/s4u_site/newlinks.html
http://www.samplez.de/
http://www.sonicimplants.com/
http://www.sonomic.com/
http://www.soundcentral.com/
http://www.soundproz.com/
http://www.soundsonline.com/
http://tilt.largo.fl.us/samples/samples.html
http://www.mourningafter.net/sizers/
http://www.loknet.demon.co.uk/leech/breakbeats.html
http://www.technotoys.com/sample.htm
http://www.tweakheadz.com/
http://www.samplemania.org/
http://www.vgmusic.com/
http://www.virtualbassplayer.com/
http://www.freaknoise.com/
http://www.dooleydrums.com/
http://www.media-tracks.com/
http://www.tapegerm.com/freeloops/
http://www.studiopt.com/audio1.html
http://www.stonewashed.net/sfx.html
http://www.thespeakerboy.com/
http://www.thelooplibrary.com/index.html
http://samplezone.org/
http://www.beatmode.com/free-loops/
http://www.sonicfoundry.com/loop_libraries/
http://www.chaosisyourdestiny.com/Free.htm
http://www.looplibrary.com
http://www.super-groove.com/sep/pages/free_loops.asp
http://www.cubelabs.com/indep/loops.htm
http://www.soundeffects.com
http://www.q-music.co.uk/platinum.htm
http://www.phalanx.co.uk/loops.html
http://www.licoricepizza.com/beatz.html
http://www.groundloops.com/archive.htm
http://www.4musicminds.com/
http://www.soundoftheweb.com/soundeffects/
http://www.visibleform.co.uk/freemusic.html
http://home.freeuk.net/freemusic/home.htm
http://misterbuster.com/loops.asp
http://www.flashthief.com/freesound/techno/1.htm
http://studio.dubroom.org/samples/
http://www.drumslive.com/freeloops.htm
http://www.futurewebsonics.com/
http://www.flashmove.com/link/Audio/Loops/
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~mac/loops/
http://www.soundfx.com/killersoundmusiclibraries.htm
http://www.twilightrecordingstudio.com/
http://www.guitarwavs.com/
http://www.hissingsid.com/freesamps.htm
http://www.flashmove.com/link/Audio/Free/
http://www.musiclibraries.tv/
http://tduck.ca/
http://www.loopfrog.com/free.asp
http://www.looplibrary.com/
http://www.loopguitars.com/samples.asp
http://www.royaltyfreemusicproduction.com/
http://www.twilightrecordingstudio.com/Freesamples.htm
http://freesfx.com/basbom1cdov3.html
http://www.loopsandgrooves.com
http://powersamples.free.fr/index2.htm
http://www.axisl.com/music_loops_all.asp
http://www.samplecell.com/dwnld1.html
http://www.stelaxy.de/
http://www.freewebs.com/dorumalaia/soundfontssf2.htm
http://www.thesoundsite.net/
http://www.goltstein.com
http://www.samplearena.com
http://www.loops.net/
http://www.heimsnet.is/lowprofile/
http://www.primesounds.com/prime2/home.jhtml
http://norsez.tripod.com/
http://soundbank.web.services.hu/
http://www.amguk.co.uk/
http://www.acidloop.com/Free.html
http://www.paradox-jungle.co.uk
http://www.rah.gq.nu/bourbon
http://www.zildjian.com/default1.htm
http://www.oneshotsamples.com/
http://www.modarchive.com/waveworld/
http://www.natural-studio.co.uk/sampled.htm
http://dancedjsonline.com/samples
http://www.true-playaz.co.uk/iframes/greenroom.html
ftp://ftp.cdrom.com/pub/demos/music/samples
http://artists.mp3s.com/artists/245/nate_conrad.html
http://bassandtrouble.com/sounds/wavs3000/wavs3000.htm
http://bbrunoo.free.fr/samples-wav/samples.html
http://formen.ign.com/news/33643.html
http://freeradicalsounds.com/julbeat.htm
http://freesfx.com/basbom1cdov3.html
http://hello.to/synthesizers
http://hem.passagen.se/lej97/kalava/
http://hem2.passagen.se/lej97/kalava/
http://home.freeuk.net/freemusic/home.htm
http://home.no.net/okval/info.htm
http://home.wanadoo.nl/lisenco/reason/patches.htm
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~mac/loops/
http://incompetech.com/
http://internettrash.com/users/sampledirect/
http://machines.hyperreal.org/samples
http://megascorpion.com/resources.html
http://members.tripod.de/andyka80/_links.htm
http://members.xoom.com/argile/samples.htm
http://members.xoom.com/Methadrene/sounds.htm
http://membres.lycos.fr/maxllo/loops.htm
http://misterbuster.com/loops.asp
http://musicmoz.org/Sound_Files/Samples_and_Loops/
http://ozonemusic.h1.ru/samples/samples7.htm
http://perso.club-internet.fr/fbcool/sound
http://powersamples.free.fr/index2.htm
http://rain.prohosting.com/~angryx1/Beats_and_Loops.htm
http://reason.fan.free.fr/
http://samplezone.org/
http://soundpros.iscool.net/
http://spec.ch.man.ac.uk/~ashley/samples.html
http://studio.dubroom.org/samples/
http://tduck.ca/
http://tilt.largo.fl.us/samples/free.html
http://tilt.largo.fl.us/samples/samples.html
http://titan.spaceports.com/~upbeat/
http://tools.coffeecup.com/Free_Sounds/
http://trackers.pp.ru/links/index.php?list=ls
http://users.yesmate.com/djscooby/
http://usraves.com/sample/index.php
http://vocodex.org/
http://wav.homez.net/
http://web.iol.cz/mpc/sa/
http://web.iol.cz/mpc/sa/sites.htm
http://www.16bitsamples.com/index.html
http://www.4musicminds.com/
http://www.714cartel.com/loops/loops.html
http://www.a1freesoundeffects.com/
http://www.acapella-heaven.tk
http://www.acidfanatic.com/
http://www.analogindustries.com/
http://www.analoguesamples.com/
http://www.angelfire.com/music2/richhoncho/software.htm
http://www.asterick.com/sample_links.html
http://www.audio360.com/index.jsp
http://www.audioattack.de/
http://www.audiomelody.com/Samples.htm
http://www.audiomidi.com/software/sounds_acid.cfm
http://www.audiowerkstatt.fly.to/reason.htm
http://www.avhangout.net/
http://www.axisl.com/music_loops_all.asp
http://www.bassculture.org/
http://www.bassquake.co.uk/
http://www.beatmode.com/free-loops/
http://www.beatsandbreaks.co.uk/kidkoalalp.html
http://www.beatsandsamples.com/
http://www.bigfishaudio.com/4DCGI/whatsHot.html
http://www.breakbeatsonly.com/links.htm
http://www.breakbeatsonly.com/preview1.htm
http://www.bries3.yucom.be/
http://www.brothercake.com/links/sample.php
http://www.chaosisyourdestiny.com/Free.htm
http://www.cobwebaudio.co.uk/sample_archives/
http://www.cpaterson.clara.net/
http://www.cubelabs.com/indep/loops.htm
http://www.cybernoc.com.pl/loopy.html
http://www.dailywav.com/
http://www.danirava.com/LINKS/links_samples.asp
http://www.djbb.dk/samples_eng.html
http://www.djsamples.com/
http://www.djsol.fsnet.co.uk/Links_frame.html
http://www.djzx.com/Music/Samples/
http://www.dnbproduction.com/link.asp?message=0
http://www.dogbeats.co.uk/
http://www.dogsonacid.com/samples/
http://www.dooleydrums.com/
http://www.downloadsafari.com/Files/mmaudio/
http://www.drummachine.com/
http://www.drumsamples.com/
http://www.drumslive.com/freeloops.htm
http://www.dynamicforce.freeserve.co.uk/download.htm
http://www.eastwestsamples.com/details.php?cd_index=162
http://www.echovibes.com/Autorank/autorank2.html
http://www.e-lab.se/
http://www.electronisounds.com/AKAI_CDs.html
http://www.entropymusic.com/freeloops.htm
http://www.f6.co.nz/artificial/
http://www.f6.co.nz/artificial/index.htm
http://www.fabtrax.com/_resources/res_samples.htm
http://www.findsounds.com/
http://www.flashkit.com/loops/
http://www.flashmove.com/link/Audio/Free/
http://www.flashmove.com/link/Audio/Loops/
http://www.flashthief.com/freesound/techno/1.htm
http://www.fleximusic.com/links/links.htm
http://www.freaknoise.com/
http://www.fullblownkirk.com/fbk/samples.htm
http://www.funk-station.co.uk/links.htm
http://www.futurewaveshaper.com/
http://www.futurewebsonics.com/
http://www.garritan.com/
http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/Congress/8516/
http://www.geocities.com/norsez/reason.html
http://www.geocities.com/s4u_site/newlinks.html
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Museum/4312/
http://www.globaldrum.com/interface/sampleORB
http://www.greyinc.co.uk/
http://www.groundloops.com/archive.htm
http://www.guitarwavs.com/
http://www.hissingsid.com/freesamps.htm
http://www.hornet.org/music/samples/
http://www.housemuzak.com/housemuziq/samples.html
http://www.hqsamples.com.ua/home.php?type=all
http://www.ibiblio.org/pub/multimedia/sun-sounds/
http://www.illnon.com/samplecds.html
http://www.imprint-music.demon.co.uk/frestuf.htm
http://www.invisiblesounds.net/home.html
http://www.iriehights.com/samples/
http://www.jara.demon.co.uk/bass/
http://www.killerbeats.com/
http://www.kniteforce.co.uk/index2.htm
http://www.kvr-vst.com/
http://www.licoricepizza.com/beatz.html
http://www.lightman.com/wakey/davidsmusic/loops.htm
http://www.loknet.demon.co.uk/leech/breakbeats.html
http://www.looperman.com/
http://www.loopfrog.com/free.asp
http://www.loopguitars.com/samples.asp
http://www.looplibrary.com/
http://www.drumnbass.be/
http://www.sonichound.com/
http://www.samplenet.co.uk/
http://www.bap.free.fr/html/sample.html
http://www.bassment.net/
http://www.fortunecity.com/roswell/randles/66/
http://www.f6.co.nz/artificial/main.html
http://www.gainrecordings.net/viewtopic.php?t=155
http://www.oneshotsamples.com/
http://www.invisiblesounds.net/home.html
http://beatbot.com/
http://www.pocketfuel.com/
http://www.kniteforce.co.uk/index2.htm
http://www.dogsonacid.com/samples/
http://www.junglebreaks.btinternet.co.uk/links.html
http://rain.prohosting.com/~angryx1/Beats_and_Loops.htm
http://www.cybernoc.com.pl/loopy.html
http://www.paradox-tunes.de.vu/
http://www.dogbeats.co.uk/
http://www.electronisounds.com/AKAI_CDs.html
http://www.samplepoolz.de/
http://www.714cartel.com/loops/loops.html
http://www.cpaterson.clara.net/
http://www.axisl.com/music_loops_all.asp
http://powersamples.free.fr/index2.htm
http://www.loopsandgrooves.com/ita/pagine/promo.htm
http://freesfx.com/basbom1cdov3.html
http://www.twilightrecordingstudio.com/Freesamples.htm
http://www.royaltyfreemusicproduction.com/
http://www.loopguitars.com/samples.asp
http://www.looplibrary.com/
http://www.loopfrog.com/free.asp
http://tduck.ca/
http://www.musiclibraries.tv/
http://www.flashmove.com/link/Audio/Free/
http://www.hissingsid.com/freesamps.htm
http://www.guitarwavs.com/
http://www.twilightrecordingstudio.com/
http://www.soundfx.com/killersoundmusiclibraries.htm
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~mac/loops/
http://www.flashmove.com/link/Audio/Loops/
http://www.futurewebsonics.com/
http://www.drumslive.com/freeloops.htm
http://studio.dubroom.org/samples/
http://www.flashthief.com/freesound/techno/1.htm
http://misterbuster.com/loops.asp
http://home.freeuk.net/freemusic/home.htm
http://www.visibleform.co.uk/freemusic.html
http://www.soundoftheweb.com/soundeffects/
http://www.4musicminds.com/
http://www.groundloops.com/archive.htm
http://www.licoricepizza.com/beatz.html
http://www.phalanx.co.uk/loops.html
http://www.q-music.co.uk/platinum.htm
http://www.soundeffects.com/musloopandsa1.html
http://www.lightman.com/wakey/davidsmusic/loops.htm
http://membres.lycos.fr/maxllo/loops.htm
http://www.dynamicforce.freeserve.co.uk/download.htm
http://www.cubelabs.com/indep/loops.htm
http://www.super-groove.com/sep/pages/free_loops.asp
http://www.looplibrary.com/freeloopssurvey.htm
http://www.chaosisyourdestiny.com/Free.htm
http://www.sonicfoundry.com/loop_libraries/
http://www.beatmode.com/free-loops/
http://www.tsunamiwavs.com/
http://samplezone.org/
http://incompetech.com/
http://www.thelooplibrary.com/index.html
http://www.thespeakerboy.com/
http://www.stonewashed.net/sfx.html
http://www.tweakheadz.com/samples.html
http://www.studiopt.com/audio1.html
http://www.flashkit.com/loops/
http://www.tapegerm.com/freeloops/
http://www.media-tracks.com/
http://www.entropymusic.com/freeloops.htm
http://www.dooleydrums.com/
http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/Congress/8516/
http://www.freaknoise.com/
http://www.pyraplastic.com/samples.htm
http://www.virtualbassplayer.com/
http://www.vgmusic.com/
http://usraves.com/sample/index.php
http://www.samplemania.org/
http://www.tweakheadz.com/
http://www.sound-planet.de/topsites/topsites5.html
http://formen.ign.com/news/33643.html
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Museum/4312/
http://www.wyze.com/sampleshack/sampleshack.html
http://www.sonicmayhem.com/site_ie.html
http://www.technotoys.com/sample.htm
http://www.loknet.demon.co.uk/leech/breakbeats.html
http://www.mourningafter.net/sizers/
http://tilt.largo.fl.us/samples/samples.html
http://www.soundsonline.com/
http://www.soundproz.com/
http://www.soundcentral.com/
http://www.sonomic.com/
http://www.sonicimplants.com/
http://www.imprint-music.demon.co.uk/frestuf.htm
http://www.samplez.de/
http://www.geocities.com/s4u_site/newlinks.html
http://bbrunoo.free.fr/samples-wav/samples.html
http://www.sounduser.com/links/samplesdownload.cfm
http://www.cobwebaudio.co.uk/sample_archives/
http://www.angelfire.com/music2/richhoncho/software.htm
http://www.primesounds.com/prime2/home.jhtml
http://www.phatdrumloops.com/old_site/
http://www.peff.com/reasonarchive/nrpb.html
http://formen.ign.com/news/33643.html
http://www.muziqnet.com/dir/Audio/Sample_Websites/
http://machines.hyperreal.org/samples
http://www.loopwise.com/musicloops.htm
http://artists.mp3s.com/artists/245/nate_conrad.html
http://megascorpion.com/resources.html
http://home.no.net/okval/info.htm
http://www.loopsagogo.com/
http://www.squarecircle.co.uk/links.html
http://hem2.passagen.se/lej97/kalava/
http://users.yesmate.com/djscooby/
http://www.ibiblio.org/pub/multimedia/sun-sounds/
http://www.illnon.com/samplecds.html
http://www.djsol.fsnet.co.uk/Links_frame.html
http://www.analoguesamples.com/
http://www.housemuzak.com/housemuziq/samples.html
http://www.garritan.com/
http://www.funk-station.co.uk/links.htm
http://tools.coffeecup.com/Free_Sounds/
http://www.tigerbill.com/subjects/dloops.htm
http://www.fleximusic.com/links/links.htm
http://www.findsounds.com/
http://www.fabtrax.com/_resources/res_samples.htm
http://www.echovibes.com/Autorank/autorank2.html
http://www.drumsamples.com/
http://www.hqsamples.com.ua
http://www.samplezone.org/
http://www.soundproz.com/
http://www.e-lab.se
http://www.samplecity.net
http://www.samplemania.org
http://www.kvr-vst.com
http://www.dogsonacid.com/samples
http://www.streetbeats.co.uk
http://www.samplecity.net
http://www.samplemania.org
http://www.hermpie.com
http://djbb.dk
http://www.bassculture.org/
http://www.samplecraze.com/
http://www.noizeloops.com/site.html
http://www.samples4.com/catalog/
http://www.a1freesoundeffects.com/noflash.htm
http://www.loopsandsamples.co.nz/links.html
http://www.soundbank.hu/download.html
http://www.beatmode.com/free-fm7-loops/
http://www.electronisounds.com/ElasticDnB.html
http://dancedjsonline.com/samples
http://www.phatdrumloops.com/old_site/
http://www.f6.co.nz/artificial/main.html
http://www.propellerheads.se/
http://www.disasterpeace.com/
http://www.sonicstop.com/
http://www.tekmonki.com/rfl/
http://reason.fan.free.fr/
http://getimo.de/linkpage2/html/reasonarea_refills.php
http://www.powerfx.com/
http://www.dorumalaia.com/prorefillswavsamplescd.htm
http://www.joor.com/
http://www.brothercake.com/samples/breakbeats.php
http://koti.mbnet.fi/jambe/
http://www.cobwebaudio.co.uk/sample_archives/
http://www.partnersinrhyme.com/pir/PIRsfx.html
http://www.dogbeats.co.uk/frame.html
http://www.sinusweb.de/
http://www.oneshotsamples.com/
http://www.members.aol.com/federalnoiseuk/index.html
http://www.breakz.be/portal/index.php
http://www.alternatemode.com/katdownloads.shtml
http://www.fruityloopers.co.uk/trax.htm
http://www.beat13.co.uk/downloads/index.htm
http://www.stonewashed.net/sfx.html
http://darkfront.ontheinter.net/
http://www.tapegerm.com/freeloops/index.html
http://www.drumnbass.be/
http://freqdisturbance.com/
http://bbass9.tripod.com/UntitledFrame-17.htm
http://www.reasonstation.net/
http://www.reasonbanks.com/
http://www.reasonfreaks.com/
http://www.lapjockey.com/ljhome.htm
http://www.wavsamples.cjb.net/
http://www.goldenboymusic.com/loops.html
http://www.bbc.co.uk/1xtra/1xmusic/sample/
http://rah.gq.nu/bourbon/
http://www.damien.egan.btinternet.co.uk/freesamples.htm
http://www.toub.co.uk/
http://www.soundzone.info/
http://www.nexusproject.net/samples.htm
http://www.bs1records.com/studio.shtml
http://www.mu-sly.co.uk/samples.php


How to Make Professional House Music tips para hacer musica house

1. Setup - If you making house music, the tempo of an ordinary track is between 128bpm to a maximum of 138bpm, maybe even 140bpm if you want to go crazy, so pretty much set the tempo where you like. Then add a compressor and Parametric EQ to the main channel, maybe even a Soft Clipper if you wish.

2. Drums - The drums and percussion are one of the main elements of making the song groove. Basically house is a dance music, so you need to make percussion that people can dance to. First of all you need to add the kick. It's always good to have a solid clean kick for a house track. One way you can make perfect kicks is add two diffrent kicks playing at the same time. For instance, take a normal hip hop kick and mix it with any other techno kick (The c_kick isn't a good idea unless you add a cut to it.) Then add your hats. Add some shakers with the hats and add a shuffle to the pattern to get the funky feel. Then put all the hats in one FX channel and add small delay (only a little amount). Then u need a thick snare and clap combined and lower the volume down on thse two instruments. Then you needs sum percs, conogs of some sort. It's better to have live congos then electronic ones like the ones on a TR-808 and TR-909 drum machine. Try to either record real congos or look for royalty-free perc loops from the internet. Then if you want to add more realism, add sum drumloops to play with the drums you put together. Remember, the more variety, the more better the drums, just don't over-do it.

3. Bassline - If you want to make an electric bassline/synth, first get the hip_bass line from the Hip Hop list and add an FX channel to it. Add a blood-overdrive and small delay, then adjust the EQ for the bassline only by adding some more bass (not too much where it starts distorting). Then don't forget to add a compressor to that channel. Then loop the bass and start composing on the piano roll. You can use 3xOsc's as well for synths, just remember to tweak its properties to change the sound to your liking.

4. Loops - Adding live organ, guitar, and sax loops are a nice effect for the song, gives it more groove. If you sample old funk and rock songs, make sure you consult the owner for permission. To adjust the loop to your track's bpm, go click on the channel, right-click the small fit box and click "Auto-Detect", that way it should adjust to the tracks bpm. Add a granulizer if you want to preserve the pitch. Make sure to right click the channel and right click "Cut Itself" to make sure theres no loops overlapping.

5. Mastering - Then adjust the EQ on the main channel to get the right sound, even out the volume and make sure not instruments distort and blurr due to loudness. And that's about it, render it to an MP3 file an upload it on you InternetDJ.com profile so people can check out your new work. You can also do more editing by using diffrent programs like Goldwave or Sonar.

Remember, if the house song has alot of variety and a funky feel to it with some good synths or loops, then the better it is

The Secrets of Morningstar's Studio Revealed

The Secrets of Morningstar's Studio Revealed


Find out how one of our top electronic producers/composers creates music with a studio constructed on his own. Includes complete gear checklist and pictures of the setup.

The way I go about creating music is rather the old fashion midi-audio route. It means I record every midi note, which later commands my hardware gear to record it into wav in my favorite digital audio program. This might seem slow to some but I've manage to get used to my system very well and I'm able to crank out tracks faster and faster each time.

It all starts with my Akai MPC2000XL. This is not just a sampling drum machine known to the hip-hop world, but a center stage to my synthesizers, sound modules and drum machines. Since MIDI is the controller language, the MPC understands it via 4 inputs and outputs. Glued to my MPC like conjoined twins is my 61 key Korg triton. The triton is the controller for my studio and it's MIDI output is routed into my MPC. From there, everything else gets controlled with the MPC as the master, keeping track of the tempo and all MIDI note record functions. Its easy to see how these two pieces of hardware are the main elements to my studio


Morningstar's Gear List

hardware Synths
Korg triton
Korg ms2000
Korg poly800
Korg ea-1
Kawai k1m
Roland u-110

Drum Machines
Korg er-1
Roland mc-307
Boss dr-202
E-MU Drumulator

Samplers/Sequencers
Akai mpc2000xl (studio)
Akai s3000xl (not working!)
Roland sp-808emix

Mixers
Allen&Heath wz16:2dx

Processors
Focusrite voicemaster pro
Line6 bass pod pro (rack)
Art tube preamps
DBX 266xl compressor
Behringer denoiser
Sony tc-730 (reel2reel)
Pioneer pdr-509 cdr deck
Akai mfc42 (analog filter)
Electro. Harmonix big muff (stomp box)

Microphones
Rode NT1-A
Shure and Sony handhelds

Computer/Audio.Midi Interface
Gateway PC P4 1.5GHZ 512mem. XP
Motu 828mk2

DJ Equipment
Technics 1210 (2)
Vestax pmc-07pro
Roland dj-2000
Numark cdn-88 (cd players)

Monitors
Roland rsm-90 (2)
Polk Audio 8"sub
AKG K240monitors
Pioneer Headphones (vintage)

Other
LTD bass guitar
Behringer electric guitar

Software
Ableton Live3
wavelab4
sonar 1.0
FL studio4



The recording process is one that I continue to improve every time I start on a new project. My recording audio interface is the MOTU 828 mk2; it is connected to my PC via a firewire cable. I use all 10 analog inputs as well as the coaxial digital inputs, this gives me a good audio flexibility in case I wanted to record multiple tracks at once. My favorite digital audio program is Ableton's Live3. I find this program to fit me like a glove with its simple user interface and it's rock solid MIDI sync capabilities.

I began to record a few bars usually about 2-4 on my MPC, which is triggering different sound modules and synthesizers. After I have some sort of backbone to a track, I proceed and record everything in Live3, which is being synced by my MPC through my 828mk2 interface. When I have all of that recorded, I begin to lay tracks over it, sometimes programmed in my MPC, or live input using my keyboard.

Vocal recording is my hardest task as I have no isolation booth and sometimes controlling noise levels becomes very difficult. I use a Rode mic condenser amped threw a Focusrite VoiceMaster Pro. The addition of these two pieces of gear really has helped me improve on vocal recordings. For the longest time I was using a Shure handheld mic with no processor, it was extremely hard to get vocals right with that set up.

The software programs I use the most are limited to Live3 and Wavelab4. I use Live3 for all my sequencing of audio data and for multi-track recording and editing. I use wavelab4 for final mix down editing and mastering purposes. I have FL Studio, but just can't use it with what I'm working with. I intend to make full use of softsynths in the future but for right now I work well with what I have and find it a bit cumbersome trying to get the sounds out of VSTs.

My monitoring system includes 2 Roland RSM-90 speaker monitors, Polk Audio 8" sub and AKG K240 monitoring headphones powered by an Onkyo stereo receiver. Most of my work is done under my headphones, but from time to time I peak out and monitor my lows and highs with my speakers and sub to get an accurate perspective. A good source to get a real read of my recordings is in my truck! I usually put a pre master in there to compare with other music from my favorite artist.

I made all my studio furniture myself. Includes the main workstation area witch holds my computer monitor and Triton synth and a small cabinet that holds my MPC, SP-808, and analog mixer..I made it out of plywood and two by fours, sanded and stained...all to my custom sizes and most comfortable positions.

I have much to go before I'm done with my set up. From more musical instruments to audio patch bays and computers there seems to be no end for my love of electronic music. My turntables are always ready for the next sampling session. I constantly dig through my vinyl collection to come up with the perfect drum kit. Combined with my constant synthesizer and sound module programming, there is no end to my search for the perfect sound.

Mastering and the Mixdown: an introduction with a downloadable FL Studio example project.

as an aspiring music creator you are certainly faced with two terms: 'Mastering' and 'Mixdown'. So what is this thing everybody talks so much about?

Imagine a chef, he has a bowl of soup which is a disaster of a meal, but he still has to serve it to his guests. He tries to save the situation by adding some spices, putting something appetising on the top and serving it on fancy plates. This guy won't stay long in the cooking business.

On the other hand he could have put effort in selecting the best ingredients for his soup and carefully cooked them with a lot of love. The result would be a lot better than the first scenario, wouldn't it?

Now to make the ultimate soup, you both have to spend time and love cooking it and know how to make it look as appetising as possible. Consider the first example mastering and the second mixdown. To make a truly good track you have to know how to use both these methods.

No matter how good at mastering you are you can't save a track with a crummy mixdown. Mastering is about making your track sound extra good, and making it sound good whereever it's played: in the club, in your headphones or in the car, etc.

Mixdown is a lot about experience, you learn what frequencies your favourite kick spikes in and so on, you learn just how much compression you can add to a bassline before it sounds totally lifeless and things like this. To me, mixdown is a lot like tetris: it's like planning something on the go. You always have the mixdown in mind when composing your track.

So the best way to improve is to practice, practice and practice. And read the occasional article about musical production.

FL Studio Tips, Tricks, and Secrets

How-Tos & Tutorials

FL Studio Tips, Tricks, and Secrets


Ever want to know how to make swish effects or unique synth sounds heard in professionally composed tracks? Learn some tricks of the trade in this article for FL Studio users. Free demo download of FL Studio included.
Do you struggle to find that swishing sound for the background in your tracks or you want to find that right explosion effect? Why spend your time looking for certain samples and effects on the internet when you can create the sample you desire with what you got in the libary combined wit effects, tweaks, and minor adjustments.

I've been using FL Studio for up to five years and I was able to use some tricks in my music making process that I have learned through experience, and now I'm going to teach you a couple of them. All you need is an FL Studio 4 or higher to be able to do this.


"Swishing Effects" - Ever listened to a Kid Creme or Junior Jack song with all the swishing effects and breakdowns and you wonder how you can do the same? There are many ways you can make those and incorporate in your songs. One way is to get a static sample, like from a TV when you put it on a channel that doesn't work. One way I got one is by taking a 3xOsc, opening up the menu for that and putting all three of the osc's on the static symbol (next to the question mark). Now just loop it and play that in a loop for as long as you need it to be, then put it on an FX channel and add a Parametric EQ, then eliminate all bass signals by lowering all of the low frequencies (maybe even hike up the treble and high mids and lowering overall volume). Then add a lowpass filter and run it through the song by pressing Record next to the play button and moving the frequency around while playing. Then stop it when your finished and turn off the Record button, and now play it, it should filter through the song automatically, you've just done a Live Recording, you can do that with almost any knob in FL Studio. Now add some delay and a touch of anything else you might want. You have just made that swishing effect, congratulations, let's move on.

"Tweaking Loops" - Have you ever made a song with a loop from some website and it turns out you here somebody else's song and they have that same loop? I know that pisses you off but really why use a loop thats been used by who knows how many artists? I know a way you can keep that loop and make it sound much more different than others. First put the loop on an FX channel and and add some delay man, just a slight delay. Maybe if you want open up that Parametric EQ and do some EQing. One way I would do it if its a drumloop is eliminate the bass and add my own kicks in the song, and why rely on the loop's percs when you can add on sum extra hats from the FL Studio library. Whay not incorporate two other tweak loops playing with that one drumloop, that way it'll sound more heavily structured which everyone wants in electronic based music.

"Synths" - Please don't tell me you plan on using that synth loops thats probably been used by a hundred artists over in it's course of lifetime, why not make your own synth for a change. if you want an epic trance type synth, then pull out the 3xOsc, add it to a channel and start tweaking. Either that or if you want an average synth line, many possibilities open up. Just go to "Options" at the top of the screen and go to "General Settings". Now look to the right at the bottom and turn on "Show Legacy Precomputed Effects", now even more possibilities just pop up out of nowhere. Now take an average bassline and hike up the "AMP" at the bottom of the menu of that sample, then put it on an FX channel, pop out that Parametric EQ, and eliminate all the bass and hike up the mids and highs, (even add a blood overdrive to it if you wish) and don't forget that compressor, you'll most likely need it to keep it from blurring. Now you've turned an average bassline into a glorious electric synth. If you want to, put the bass back in that sample and it doubles as a synth and bassline.

These are just few of the many possibilities you can do with the FL Studio software, now I want you to get out there and show me some true unique art, something that will pop out of nowhere and in your face like BAM!!!

Remember, you can try these tricks out with a free demo of FL Studio at their website link below.

FL Studio Tips, Tricks, and Secrets fruity loops tips

FL Tips


Due to the number of responses to my post yesterday, I will try to answer each one in turn, also I will also try to post a tip or tutorial once a week. I have been using FL for a couple of years and YES I do have a lot that I could teach, but alas I am currently on dial-up and can only get on at night so as not to tie up my phoneline during the day. So having said that...........

Here's my first set of tips:


1. DON'T RELY SOLEY ON THE SAMPLES AND PLUGINS INCLUDED WITH FRUITY LOOPS!!! I'm not knocking the quality of the included effects, samples and plugins, but here are quite a number of free, good quality VST Plugins out there, and chances are if the sound you are looking for wasn't included with FL, there's a VST Instrument that has it. www.kvraudio.com should be a permanent fixture in your bookmarks as they list free and commercial plugins and samples for just about any program, and their rating system is usually dead on. I mean though the FPC is wonderful in concept to me I NEVER USE IT! (Battery Rulez!!!)

2. Quantization can be your best friend or your worst enemy!! Use quantization sparingly. I generally only quantize my drum tracks, but never the whole drum track, maybe just the hi-hats and kicks. I've found this gives a more human feel to drums. (If you don't know how to quantize single parts of a track e-mail me and I'll tell you how!!!)

3. While on the subject of drums, if the drumset I'm using doesn't have that punch that I'm looking for, I've found that compressing them with the Fruity Compressor with the Drumset preset usually gives the result I'm lookin for.

4. Minimize the time you spend on a making a beat as much as possible. It's very easy to get caught in a rut with a beat. Take a break and work on a totally different beat, sometimes the new can lead inspiration to the old. I have probably 50 unfinished beats on my system and I often go back and keep adding on until a beat is finished. Doing this also builds up a collection quickly that can be used to showcase to potential buyers, because they may like it just the way it is!!

5. Don't be so critical of yourself noob or FL God!!! Realize that even the greatest painters in the world had a learning period before they became masters!

That's all for now, next time I will go into how to setup FL to maximize your beat creation process.

Eldgin AKA DJ Eniggma

martes 29 de abril de 2008

fl studio tutorials basic mixing free download instrumentos in space

BASIC MIXING, Positioning instruments in space (flp loop package)

Positioning instruments in space is crucial part of music production process.
This tutorial consists of one flp loop package file (FL Studio 7).
Only main aspects of positioning are covered in this tutorial file. Theory is a little bit wider, but
should show you how important is equalization, compression and panning to exactly place and define sound in limited aural space.

Hope you enjoy this one.

fl tutorials basic effects free download fruity loops tutorials download

BASIC EFFECTS, Chorus (flp loop package)

Chorus is pretty interesting effect. This tiny tutorial shows how to use chorus parameters
to manipulate sounds. It is just a descriptive information about each parameter found in Fruity Chorus.
Enjoy

fl tutorial free download Sidechain compression and filter automation

ADVANCED MIXING, Sidechain compression and filter automation (flp loop package)

Sidechain compression is pretty interesting effect which can be used to emphasize one sound using compressor automation.
This tutorial consist only from one flp loop package, in which automated notebook displays all comments while the track is playing. So dont forget to run the track in song mode. Look at the mixer and learn how peak controller is used to generate automation info used to control threshold of the mixer.

free fruity loops tutorials hihats many posibilities

ADVANCED MIXING, One hihat, many possibilities (flp loop package)

Have you ever wondered, how powerfull fruity loops actually is? How drastically it can improve the sounds you insert to your sampler channel? This example takes only one hihat sound, and demonstrates use of envelopes applied over volume and pitch using channel settings (ins tab).

How powerful can velocity and keyboard tracking be, when we work with looped hihat? As soon as i found these two abilities, i started to use them daily.

This tutorial is about tweaking, and studying. Of course, there is some information written in Fruity notebook, but you will have to experiment. Tweak, play with the settings and read.

fl studio free tutorial about shaping noise advanced mixing

ADVANCED MIXING, Shaping noise (flp loop package)

You probably know 3osc, if you work using fruity loops. Actually it not only produces supersaw sounds, it can be a trully outstanding noise beast.
We will take raw noise from 3osc and play with settings to create some interesting effects.
You will probably like them. This tutorial is about noise processing using Channel settings and Mixer. We will use more mixer channels to create advanced noise effects.

free fl studio tutorial Improving panorama

ADVANCED MIXING, Improving panorama (flp loop package)

Panorama, positioning, reeverb using, playing with sonic space. All this is automated. Of course you will find out most important aspects of panorama improvement, while playing the song (everything is automated, so just play, listen and read the automated notebook). You can download this tutorial file from here

how to use automation fl studio fruity loos free tutorial

ADVANCED MIXING - SIDECHAIN COMPRESSION AND FILTER AUTOMATION

Theory

This tutorial illustrates the use of sidechain compression and some other important aspects of automation in FL studio. First of all we have to discuss concept of sidechain compression. It is speciall kind of compression, where threshold level is somehow automated. In general. One signals volume level is used as an information to tweak compressor threshold level. Usually, in other hosts, there are speciall plugins, which can be automated this way. In fl studio. Each knob can be automated according to volume level of other signal. For this purpose. FL developers created a plugin called Fruity peak controller. I think, this is one of the most powerfull, versatile and trancy plugin in FL studio.

Most common use of sidechain compression is, when kick volume level is used to automate bass compression. It means, that when kick reaches its peak, bass is compressed the most. Kick becomes much more present. Of course, you may use sidechain in every creative combination.




OK. Lets move to the core of automation system. Fruity peak controller transforms volume level to automation events. And these events can be used to automate each knob in fl studio. (so you can make sidechain filtering, sidechain resonance controll, sidechain release controll...etc). You can adjust how the volume levels are transformed into events. {PEAK group in picture above}




Another interesting effect is Fruity formula controller. I used its automation events to manipulate filter cutoff. Its a and b knobs are further automated using Fruity peak controllers placed in bass mixer channel track. These two automated inputs are calculated using formula and the result can be used to automate other knobs.

OK. And now to sidechain process.

  1. First be sure you have two mixer tracks. First is used for sidechaining and second one is sidechained. In our example we have Kick peaker track {sidechaining} and bass track {sidechained}.

  2. Place Fruity formula controller on kick peaker track.

  3. Place compressor on bass track

  4. Now right click on threshold knob of bass compressor and choose Link to controller...


  5. Set the Internal controller to be Peak ctrl {this controller provides automation events}

  6. Set Mapping formula to Inverted (1-Input). This causes that the threshold knob value rises when kick is not playing and falls, when kick is playing. {And as we know. Higher threshold, lower compression and vice versa). It means, that when kick hits, bass becomes more compressed, then when kick is silent

  7. Do you see that Remove conflicts button? {marked red}. It is marked becouse we controll more than one knob with this {we automate A knob in formula controller too}. Dont click at it. Or it will remove connection with formula controller. Now kick peaker controlls two knobs. And thats what we want in this tutorial. So it is ok for now.

  8. Click Accept. And observe the results. When kick hits, compressor threshold level falls. And thats what we want. {look at the reset button, you may want to use it to stop automating a knob later.}

And now. Why is it call sidechain? Becouse one signal path controlls what happens in other.

Tutorial

Now for the tutorial. I used automated notebook to keep you informed. One pattern is used for automation purposes only. First bring the notebook to front, to keep you informed. Second. Run the song, reak the notebook and listen for changes. I actually only unmute plugins so they start to work.

About the situation. Bass mixer channel has one formula controller and three peak controllers. These peak controllers are used to generate low frequency oscilations which are used to move A and B knobs of Formula controller. Formula controller is used to automate filter cutoff knob. So we have two-level automation in progress. And that is why i called this tutorial filter automation too.

So if you want to learn progressively, first try to find out how automation works, then observe how peak controller works. {i often use it to automate channel volume fader to see what it does}. And then learn, how formula controller works. After you find its power, you have mastered this tutorial. Good luck while exploring. :D

flp studio loop package) advanced mixing free tutorials

ADVANCED MIXING, bass madness (flp loop package)

This tutorial was requested by Splinter.
You will find lots of usefull tricks here. How to use standard event automation to play with filter or how to use gating to modulate the bass. Of course there are MIDI controllers in play (such as fruity peak controller or fruity formula controller). Bass is fun. Take it that way and you will be rewarded. You can find this tutorial here.


If you have some interesting new fresh tutorial suggestions, please let me know. If you have some superb links to tutorial files, let me know.

free fl studio tutorial zip download about basic synthesis granular synthesis

BASIC SYNTHESIS, Granular synthesis (FL studio zip package)

Hi again. Now its time for some interesting stuff. Do you know about granular synthesis? Its the process when you take one sample, split it into small chunks called grains and then reassemble them to form a new sound. And you can tweak all parameters of this process. You know. It can become crazy.
Such as the sound presented in this tutorial example. Download and find your way out in a world of granular synthesis.
Tutorial is located here.

free download tutorial about basic structure production

BASIC STRUCTURE, Buildups

Buildups can be crazy. You may win and loose with them so much. This tutorial should help you to understand the meaning of tension in song and should help you with understanding of stability in song. When you learn how to work with song, you have gained one overimportant skill in your production. Lets start with me and improve on your own.
You may download the tutorial here.

Descargar drum tutorial de fruity loops introduccion

My Drum Tutorial

Right Here's my drum tutorial in the form of a fl .zip bundle, just open the zip as a song file in FL and it will have all the bits needed to make the tutorial all ready in place... all the description bits are in the FLnotebook which should be open when you open the project... finally here's the link to download the tutorial nyah...

http://www.filefactory.com/file/777011/ - (4mb)

Mixer & FX - FL Studio Tutorial 3 tutoriales sobre mixer y efectos en fl studio en ingles

FL Studio Tutorial 3: Mixer & FX

should've been 'Using the Mixer and FX', ztupid short names. Grr.

Alright, here we are, in the last leg!! For anyone that is reading this for the first time, this is the 3rd tutorial in my 'basics trilogy', a 3-part series designed to cover the basic concepts and uses of FL Studio. If you have not read the first two tutorials, I HIGHLY reccomend you go back and at least skim through them. From this point forward, I will assume you know everything previously covered.

Alright, first things first. Let's take a close look at this thing we call the mixer. This is one of the more complicated windows you will deal with in FL Studio, but it is important that you learn how to use it. A note to pre-FL 6 users: The Mixer in FL 6 was given a lot of new feautures, more than I can list off the top of my head. The things you do still need to pay attention to are how to assign an instrument to a mixer channel, and how to use the faders, pan knobs, mute switches, VU Meters, and how to use effects (FX).

OK, if you're keen, you'll know this is the cue for an overly detailed screenshot...



Ha, I didn't realize it until I started to label this screen, but there is a lot of stuff crammed into that mixer window!! I guess I'm just used to it all now, but hey, you will be too before long! For now we'll just focus on the channel strips. Also note that I'm not going to cover absolutely everything in the mixer window, as there are some more advanced features. I will likely be coming back to the mixer for an in-depth tutorial, focused specifically on this particular window.

Anyways, looking back at the screen, let's start from the bottom up. At the very bottom there is a button with a floppy disk icon on it. This is a more advanced feature, which is mostly for rendering and exporting tracks for portability. I'm not going to go into how to use this function for this tutorial, but if I come back for a more in-depth mixer tutorial, I'll cover it (but y'all have to request it!)

Continuing, you can see another button with "FX" written on it. Whenever a channel has effects added to it, this switch becomes active and lights up (we'll learn about this later). You can then use this to bypass all effects if you wish to listen to a raw track. It functions a simple toggle switch (click on, click off), and is active whenever it is lit up.

Next is a slightly more complicated feature, which is rather unique to FL Studio 6 from the previous versions. In the past to use sends it has been necessary to add an effect called "Fruity Send". With FL Studio 6, there are now switches on every channel for sends. To use this feature, first select the channel you wish to use by simply clicking anywhere in the channel strip. In this example, channel 1 is selected, for this reason the name has been highlighted. You can see the send icon for it changes to show that it is selected. This icon signifies the signal coming out of the fader and traveling in both directions. By default each channel sends to the master and all 4 send channels at the end of the mixer. You can see that the icon on the Master channel shows the signal coming in and going into the master. It is also lit up orange to signify that it is active. You can actually disable this send if you wish, but you aren't likely to ever need to do this. You'll also notice that after a send is activated a knob appears above the icon. This indicates the level of the send, ie how loud the instrument is when sent into the target channel. An alternate way of turning the channel up would be increasing the send level to the master (but that's not real practical). This new send system is very powerful (much more useful than the old way) and can allow virtually any network of sends and returns. You likely won't need to use this system for quite a while, but it's good to know how to use it, in case you ever happen to find a good use for it .

Anyways, moving on, Now we get into the useful section. The level faders are probably going to be what you are tweaking more than anything else. In tradition with 'real' mixers, the faders start at the 3/4 up position (this would be '0' on a real mixer). I don't think a lot of explanation is needed for this part, click and drag on the fader to move it. Drag up to increase volume, down to decrease volume. Above the fader is the pan knob. Remeber this? We saw this at the end of lesson two. Click and drag up to pan right, and down to pan left. You'll see the meter pop up as you begin dragging. Next is the mute switch, hey we've seen this before! This works exactly like the ones on the SS.

The next item up is the VU Meters. These are very important to monitor. You never want your channel to light up the red segments at the top of this meter. When this happens, iti s called clipping. If your channel clips, it will begin to disort and peak. The higher it goes past this point the worse it sounds, it can destroy your entire mix! Before doing a final render, make sure that at the very loudest part of the song this channel never goes past the yellow area. If you are having a lot of problems with this, and either can't get an extremely loud sample to not clip, or have too many dynamics in your song, causing the softer parts to be covered up when the fader is at a controllable level, you can use a special effect called a compressor. We'll talk about this more later.

Continuing to move up, next we see the track name and optionally the track icon. For the example I renamed track 1 to "roxorz!" In the same way we renamed our patterns in lesson 2. To give the channel and image or icon, right click on the track and pick "set icon". Simple enough. AT the top is a scroll bar, which allows you to scroll through the 64 available tracks in the mixer. I have no earthly idea why there are 64 tracks, you'd be lucky to get to 16 (even the demo song didn't come close) - but, nevertheless, there are 64 channels there for the taking.

OK, now I'm sure you are wondering just how the heck to use these tracks now that you know so much about them! Well it's rather simple really. you can assign as many instruments as you want to one channel in fact. Bring up the familiar main instrument window. Just in case you've forgotten how to do this, create yourself an instrument in the step sequencer or use one that's already there, and simply click on the instrument to bring up the main window (or retract it if it's already open). For this example, I'll just use the familiar "Kick" that's always sitting there on a new project.



Now take a look in the upper right hand corner. You'll notice a box with "--" in it, and labeled "FX". Eureka!! To assign the instrument to a track in the mixer, simply change the value of the "--" to whatever track you would like to use. This box works just like the knobs from before, click and drag up or down to increase or decrease the value. Watch the mixer as you do this, you'll notice the tracks become selected as you change this box as well. Generally, drums all go on track 1. This is simple with FPC as it's all compacted into 1 instrument, but in the days before FPC when we had tons of instruments with each sample in order to use drums, you would have to go through each piece of the kit and assign it to track 1. This way you could level the drums as a whole and apply effects and such uniformly as well.

So, speaking of effecs, why not finally learn how to use them?? Well it's rather simple really. Let's say you get yourself a sick guitar part, and you stick it on Track 2. You can select track 2 and rename it to "sick guitar!", give it neat guitar icon, and throw some distortion in there to make it even sicker!! You already know how to do the first two, but let's focus on that third. Now that you've got your guitar on track 2, select that track, again by clicking anywhere on the channel strip. Now look over to the right half of the mixer..



Oh dear, I know - another scary picture. This section of the mixer has a lot of more complicated stuff, so I used some different colors. For now don't worry about the stuff with blue names, just the red names.

First of all, you'll notice a big version of the VU meters we talked about earlier. This is an enlarged (amplified) version of whatever channel is selected. Just a nice little visual aid. Now in the upper section we have our 'rack' of sorts. We have 8 spots for any effects we chose. I put some fast distortion for our guitar in slot 1. To stick an effect in there, simply click the down arrow to the left of any slot - the FX selector, and go to Select. This will give you a drop down menu of many common effects built into FL. Hooray! Pick any of these and it will be loaded into the corresponding slot in the mixer, and the window for this effect will pop up, with all the settings and such for it. If you'll notice, our distortion pops up with a window like this one..



Pretty simple, just a few knobs and a little graph, but it gives us full control over the effect. To toggle this window on and off, click on the effect's name in it's little rack space over in the mixer. Before long your workspace may become highly cluttered with these windows, so close them after you finish tweaking unless you need to monitor them or have plenty of screen real estate to spare. Just like I said a while back with the knobs in the main 3x osc window, the best way to learn how to use the controls for an effect is to let the instrument go on a loop or something, and tweak away! Just make sure to save your file before you start tweaking!
#2July 28th, 2006 · 11:59 PM
17 threads
85 posts
United States
There are actually more effects than you get in the initial drop down menu after clicking the FX selector. Hit the first option 'More..." to get a full list of all effects. Notice that sometimes FL will pick up various plugins on your computer that are NOT effects. Be careful here, trying to open something clearly not meant to be used as an effect will bring up an error most of the time, but the results can be catastrophic to your file on rare occastions!! This is what my extended list looks like...



Pretty obvious what to use and what not to use! The first time you bring up this window it wouldn't hurt to hit the Refresh button down in the lower right corner. Just be careful, as this brings up a couple options. Most of the time I would pick Fast Scan. Scan & Verify can cause some ugly things to happen o_0.

And hey, guess what - go back to the SS and go to your insert or replace menu again. What's the first option? You can use the same method here for additionall or outside instruments. Most of the time these two occurences of the "More..." menu are to use outside vst's or plugins, but occasionally you'll find something built in to FL that you never noticed before!

Alright, well I think that about sums up our final lesson here!! I hope you've learned a lot from this series, I can't wait to hear some kick-in-the-rear music coming out of you guys!!

As with the other tutorials, if you have any problems, or any suggestions for me to change or revise something, please send me a pm!!

Now it's time for you guys to decide where I should go from here. There are several topics I could cover in depth for some later tutorials. I could easily go into the piano roll advanced functions, or even to the complex parts of the mixer I blazed over here for the sake of simplicity. If enough people want me to write a tutorial over one particular topic, I will do my best to explain it!

Anyways, thanks for sacrificing god knows how much time for these tutorials, I hope you have really benefited from them!!

Peace all,
David

Vocal Tips & Tricks text tutorial about recording audio vocal

Here are some simple ideas you can use to make your vocals sound better.

Listen listen listen! Your ear is your voice, not your throat.

All the rules that apply to normal music practice (and some that don't) apply to vocal practice.

Practice regularly (daily if possible). Find a coach. Read books, study other vocalists. Listen to their CDs, sing along. Stretch, warm up and use strength training exercises. Your voice is a set of muscles like any other set that any other musician uses, don't over do it.

Listen listen listen! Your ear is your voice, not your throat.

Learn breath control; sing from your belly.

The muscle that controls your breathing is called your diaphragm and if you watch a baby sleeping, you'll notice that when (s)he breathes, what primarily rises up and down is not the chest but the belly. Hiccups and "Getting the wind knocked out of you" are both forms of diaphram spasms. If you've experienced either of these things, then you know how crucial a role the diaphragm plays in breathing. The point is that singing has everything to do with breath and that good breath control will result in better vocals. Breath control comes from the control and stability of the diaphragm. If you think you need to push harder on something, either to be louder or clearer or more stable, push harder on your diaphragm, not your vocal muscles. Your vocal muscles should, for the most part, be relaxed. Sing from your belly.

Listen listen listen! Your ear is your voice, not your throat.

Sing with something, anything.

Find a good quality (preferably organic) long-sustaining pitch source.

A guitar, a piano, a sitar, a fan, a blender, a blow dryer, a lawn mower, anything. No seriously, I mean anything. Anything that has a constant pitch and can produce an extended and sustained tone. Preferably something that sustains a tone for a long time and that doesn't interfere with your stomach, chest throat mouth or head areas, also preferably something with which you can select the easiest note for you to sing in your range. For most people a guitar or piano will suffice though if you can get an electric guitar and crank up the volume this will probably be your best bet. When you're only plucking one string you can crank up the volume louder than you think on an electric guitar. Careful! Don't crank it so loud you can't hear yourself anymore.

You need to sing with something to be sure that you're holding a steady note. A string will vibrate at a more or less constant rate and will not vary it's pitch by much at all. A string does vary its pitch a small amount over time, sharper on the attack, flatter on the decay, small amounts of fluctuation during vibration. However, compared to the average (and even trained) human voice, the amount of a string's vibrational flux is negligible and is perfectly suitable for singing with.

Listen listen listen! Your ear is your voice, not your throat.

Slow down. Take baby steps. Start with just one note.

Waaaaay down, yes I mean way down.

Now using your trusty pitch source, strike a note and sing it. Hold that one single note for as long as you can. Make a contest out of it. It's like holding your breath. How long can you hold a note? 10 seconds, 15? 30? A minute? Remember not to run completely out of breath to the point of wheezing, that is not good. Consider your note broken once you really begin to run out of breath and stop the instant the note becomes strained. Do that for a week straight before you go on to moving between notes.

Listen listen listen! Your ear is your voice, not your throat. Have I gotten through to you yet? Let me explain.

Listen! Your ear is your voice.

Most people get this backwards and they think that by pushing harder on their vocal muscles that they will in some way enhance their voice. Only by really listening to your voice and what it sounds like and what it is doing will you understand what it is your vocal muscles are actually doing to it and thus understand how to manipulate those vocal muscles to do what you want with your voice.

While doing your one note singing exercise, don't think about or pay attention to how you sound, pay attention to how the string sounds and match the pitch. This is absolutely fundamental. Vocal practice is primarily ear training first and muscle training second. Most instrument training centers first around how to properly move the muscles and appendages concerned. Vocal training centers first around how to detect the whether and how far off a note is from another, in other words, how far off is your voice from that note you should be singing. As mentioned before, sing one note for a week or a month or as long as it takes for you to know with absolute certainty that you can and are singing what you are hearing. Your ear is your voice.

Listen listen listen! Your ear is your voice, not your throat.

Learn to sing effortlessly through direct experience.

Try the simple exercise of making each of the standard vowel sounds: A E I O U but use the european style vowel sounds, so phonetically it sounds like: "Ahhh, Ehhh, Eeeee, Ohhh, Ooou." Sing one note and keep that note steady, now while keeping that note going, shift between each of the vowel sounds. Move your mouth around, move your throat around, open your mouth wide narrow your mouth down. Discover through direct experience the easiest and most effortless way to clearly enunciate each of those vowels without stress on your vocal muscles. This is difficult! Don't get frustrated.

First begin to sing a note, then listen very closely to how the note sounds, then finally try to pay attention to how your voice box and throat muscles feel in the position they are in. After you've listened and payed attention to how your voice sounds and how it feels to make that sound, then and only then should you shift your voice box and throat muscles to a different position to get a different sound. All the while you should be singing and keeping this note going. Now revert back to listening to your voice. Then feel your throat, then change. Always begin with listening.

Listen listen listen! Your ear is your voice, not your throat.

An anecdote on science

A vocal coach was telling me about how they did some studies (and you know they talk a lot) to see if they could figure out the neurological basis for the cognition of vocal intonation. Many experiments and electrode attachments later the scientists conducting this study were stumped and had no further information on how the brain does what it does when people sing, much less how to help people become better singers with the information they were hoping to garner.

The coach told me that as part of the study they were comparing different techniques to figure out which ones yielded the best results in terms of helping people figure out how to sing better and make their voices both do what they wanted and sound more pleasing. The age old but winning technique that the coach imparted to me that has supposedly been in use for hundreds of years is simpler than the scientists could have ever imagined. It's called visualization. No this isn't a Tony Robbins seminar or any new age mumbo jumbo, it's really pretty simple. All you do is "visualize the sound" you want to hear. Sight and sound don't particularly mix well in this context, so this might require a bit of explanation.

They say that the sense of smell is the most closely related to memory. Think of a time when you smelled something that triggered a particularly powerful memory, for many people the smell of popcorn triggers the memory of a movie theater, or the smell of freshly baked goods might trigger the memory of mother or grandmother. Now try to remember something you've smelled or tasted before, like an apple. Simply try to remember what an apple actually tastes like. You can do it, it just requires a bit of imagination. Now try to remember what an apple looks like, all of this with as much detail as possible. Now for the last test, try to remember exactly what your favorite song sounds like, full orchestration and everything, what key it's in, all the different parts. Try to do it as a whole, don't try to remember specific details of the song, just try to "hear" the song in your head. Got it? No? Keep trying. Yes? Good. Sort of? Well, that's about as close as you need to get.

So now here's how this all fits together: when you're singing, once properly warmed up and using correct vocal technique and while not straining, simply imagine how you'd like your voice to come out, think about it for a while, really concentrate on it, even "visualize" to the extent that is possible, and then... well... just do it. Just let it out. Simply take that visualized or imagined sound and "put it into" your vocal chords and see what happens. You might be surprised; hopefully in a good way.

FL Studio Tutorial 2: Patterns how to use patterns in fruity loops fl studio tutorials

Alright, I know my first tutorial was very basic, as it was just intended to get someone started with FL that has had NO experience with it. The second edition is going to pickup where the first left off, so if you haven't read the first I highly suggest you go back and at least skim through it first to make sure you're up to pace.

Anyways, in the last lesson you learned how to make a simple pattern using one instrument. This is a very important concept, but it only gets you so far. Before long you'll need several instruments, drum tracks, and such. And sorting through all of the sequences in the whole song can get quite messy if you're trying to squeeze it all into the same sequence. This is why FL implements a system of patterns.

Let's take a loot at the playlist:



See the left panel, with all of the patterns? The one in orange is the currently selected patern, and the corresponding row for that pattern is highlighted. Each pattern can hold it's own little sequence for any of the instruments at once. This is a rather hard concept to explain in words, so let's try it out shall we? Go up to File -> New or just launch FL fresh, and let's start a new project.

Firstly, those 4 default instruments you see all the time, Kick, clap, hi-hat, and snare - we don't need those! Try clicking on some of them, you'll notice just to the right of the name there is a small green circle that lights up. Our goal is to light all 4 of those up. Theres two ways to do this, you can either click the top one and drag down, or you can just click one that's already green, which will automatically light up all 4.
Pick your method, and after they're all lit up, hit Ctrl + Delete. Hit ok to the dialog, and there they go! You'll notice that FL doesn't like to be left empty-handed, so any time it runs out of instruments, it automatically inserts an empty placeholder, called a sampler. This instrument won't do anything uless you load your own samples and go through the process of configuring everything - but let's not worry about that right now. Remember how we added the 3x Osc last time? That time we went to insert, then the instrument, which added it to the list - but this time, we want to get rid of the sampler too. FL studio allows us to do this at the same time. Go to replace -> FPC*.



It may take a second to load, but then you will have a beautiful yellow window pop up with lots of buttons and things scattered about. This is your main window for FPC, and it wouldn't hurt to leave it open for the rest of the time if you can. Looking back at the Playlist, make sure Pattern 1 is orange and the first row is highlighted. If another pattern is oragne, just click Pattern 1 and everything will be fine.

Look in the upper right hand corner of the FPC window, just to the right of "MIXER". There's a folder icon. click on this and a window opens up with many different choices for your drum pattern.



For this example, let's go into 808 Loops, and pick 808kit_01.mid. You'll notice the name pops up in the corner, just to the right of the folder icon we clicked previously. You may also notice some data appears in the step sequencer. This shows that we now have a little sequence in this pattern. Hit space bar to listen to it. This is a good beat, and we'll use it later. But what about those fills? Drum parts get boring after a while, and it doesn't hurt to throw in a good fill here and ther. Go over to the playlist again, and click on Pattern 2. Notice that the information in the step sequencer clears. This is because this pattern can hold completely different data. If you go back to pattern 1 you'll see the drum loop reappear.

Anyways, go to Pattern 2, and go back to the FPC window. If you accidentally closed it, just click FPC in the step sequencer and it comes right back. You can close the main instrument window if you want, the FPC window will stay open. Since we're using 808 loops, it's a good idea to stay within the same style. The left and right arrows on either side of the name of the current pattern (in the upper right hand corner, remember) will allow you to move through the other loops in this same folder. Alternatively you can hit the down arrow all the way to the right and get a list of all the loops in the folder.

Since this pattern is empty, you simply need to change the loop once for FPC to fill it in. hit the right arrow to go to 808kit_02, and you'll see the data appear in the SS (step sequencer, I'll use shorthand occasionally) again. Go ahead and hit spacebar to listen to it, and continue clicking the right arrow to listen to differnet loops. You can pick whatever you like, but I decided on 808kit_07 for a fill. Remember this for later, and we'll continue moving on.

It never hurts to start off a song with a good bass line, so let's find ourself a good Bass. Go to Insert again, and click BooBass. Seems simple enough. Now I just picked this since it's quick and simple, as I'm trying to get through this tutorial in a short time. Feel free to experiment with different instruments, especially after we go over the browser a little bit later. Anyways, after selecting BooBass, the familiar instrument window will come up, with BooBass' own settings. you can tweak the simple 3 band eq if you want, but once you're done, close the window so as not to clutter your workspace.

Select Pattern 3 on the playlist first, then right click on BooBass and select Piano Roll. Look at the sequence below




Punch this into your own Piano Roll and play it. Nothing to flashy, but still almost catchy in a way. Now go over to the Playlist again. We know that pattern 1 is our main drum pattern, pattern 2 is our fill, and pattern 3 is our bassline. Rather annoying remembering all those numbers don't you think? Especially whne you've got lot s of patterns to remember. Click on pattern 1 and hit F2. Type in Drums and hit enter. Click on pattern 2, hit F2, type Fill and hit enter. Click on pattern 3, hit F2, type Bass, and hit enter. Simple enough, but now we have some clear labels. Just a word of advice, sometimes the patterns aren't as simple to name as this, as you'll see later, so you may have to be rather creative with your names so you know what the pattern holds.

Anyways, gettting on with it. You'll notice that the playlist works a lot lke the PR - you can draw on it the same way, create bars by clicking, erase by right clicking. However, you cannot change the size of the bar, only the location. We'll talk more about this later. I can't remember what the default tool is for the playlist at the moment, but put your mouse over the playlist, if it looks like a pencil or anything else, go to the tool pallette in the upper left hand corner and click the paintbrush. Now when you hover your mouse over the playlist it should turn into a paintbrush. This is a lot more useful than the pencil, which only allows you to draw one pattern at a time. The paintbrush allows you to drag and create a string of patterns as long as you want.

Let's start the song off with 2 bars of bass line, kick the drums in on measure three, then continue until measure 8 where we change to a fill. Confused? Read on. We know the bassline is going to be constant, so click in the first measure accross from Bass, and drag over to measure 8. The drums come in on measure 3, and change to a fill on 8. Click on measure 3 accross from Drums, and drag over to measure 7. Then Click on measure 8 accross from Fill. When you're finished, it should look like this...



Before we play it, take a look at the transport controls...



Notice the indicator to the left of the play button. You'll see two labels, PAT and SONG. Each has a light next to it, and the one selected is lit up orange. Until now we've been working with individual patterns, but now that we have an actual song going using multiple patterns, we want to play the whole song. you can click anywhere in this little section or you can hit L to change the play mode to SONG. Hit the spacebar and you'll notice a bar moving accross the playlist as your song begins to play. You can hear the repetitive bass and drums go until measure eight where you hear a fill and then your song immediately loops back to the beginning.

Now let's start building the song. Bring up the browser. The browser operates using a tree design - in other words, when you go inside a folder, each subsequent file and folder are indented slightly to show that they are on a lower level. Looking at the first level, find Plugin Presets, and click it to drop down the list if it's not already so. Next click on Generators, to see a list of some of the instruments you have available to you. Go to Sytrus. Sytrus is the name of a very powerful synth included with FL Studio 6. It is much more powerful than any of the synths we've used so far. It's also an all-around synth, so you can make virtually any instrument you want. You'll notice after clicking on Sytrus there are several more folders. Go to Plucked. You'll see several instruments come up. To use one, drag it onto the SS. Make sure not to drag onto another instrument (it will light up orange) as this will actually replace the instrument with the preset. Find Zen (it's the last one) and drag it over.

Go down to pattern 4, so as not to overwrite any previous material. Open up the PR for Zen and put a quarter note on G5 (ie the G above C5) on count 4, and a quarter note on C5 on count 1 of measure two.

#2July 22nd, 2006 · 10:18 PM

Hit L to change back to PAT play mode and hit space to listen to it. Simple enough. Now let's get back to the song. Let's do the same pattern for bass and drums again (minus the solo bass intro). Extend the bass line over to measure 16. Extend the drums over to 15 and do a fill on measure 16. Now try putting in pattern 4 at measure 8. Hey, it looks different! You may rememeber me mentioning something about not being able to change the size of the bars within the playlist. The size of the bar is determined by the length of the pattern. If you remember when we made Pattern 4 we extended it into the second measure, making the pattern 2 measures long. for this reason when we implement it in the playlist the bar will be twice as long. Go ahead and stick pattern 4 in there until measure 16, don't worry about it hanging off at the end by a measure, we'll fix that later.



Well that pattern is nice, but gets old rather fast, so lets make another one taking off from this pattern. Go to pattern 5 and punch this in for Zen...



Now this may look like nothing but a bunch of bars to you at first, but play it (remember to put it in pattern play mode) and you can hear a simple melody (yes this is the one I used in gamey, sue me). Go ahead and extend the drums, bass, and now pat 4 another 8 measures to 23. Stick this new pattern in there from 16 to 23 as well. You'll notice the pattern is 4 measures long, so you only have to stick it in there twice!



OK, you may have noticed I didn't put a fill in this time on measure 24. That's because I want to introduce a larger part here, so rather than do another fill, I want to do a hit on 1 and then have a break. To do this, we first need to create a simple pattern for the downbeat. But, in the sake of keeping things organized, it would be better if the break were up with the percussion patterns at the top. Inserting a pattern here is simple, right click on Bass and select Insert One. Rename the new pattern to Break. Now go up to the SS and open up the PR for BooBass. Put a note on C5 on 1 (it doesn't really matter how long it is, eigth note or quarter note will do fine). Now, without changing patterns, open up the PR for FPC. Here's that different looking Piano Roll we taled about in the last lesson. Find the note that says "Kick Drum" and put a note on the downbeat of 1 as well.

EDIT: Sometimes FL doesn't like to change the piano roll like it should. If you pull up the PR for FPC and it looks like a normal one, with an unapetizing keyboard along the side, close out of the piano roll, then right click FPC and select Piano Roll again. This should fix the problem. If you really can't get it, the kick drum is on C3.

Now there's one more part to insert, a few more things to teach you, and I'll leave the rest to you. Go back to the browser, into Sytrus again (in case you forgot how to get there, it's Plugin Presets -> Generators -> Sytrus). This time go to Gutiars and pick Electric 3. Add it to the SS. Note that, like before, I looked through the instruments rather quickly for the sake of time to get this tutorials out sooner. Feel free to experiment with any of the others, and even check out other synths, like FL Slayer.

Anyways, go to Pattern 7, or whatever your first empty pattern is. Bring up the PR for electric 3 and punch this in...



By the way, did you notice something strange about that pattern? Look closely at the first and second to last C5's. They have triangles lightly engraved at the beginning of the bar. And they're also right on top of another note, with a short delay in starting time. These notes with triangle denoations are called slides, or glides. FL implements this concept rather strangely, but it's easy after you get the hang of it. Whenever a slide is placed in a sequence, any pitches that the instrument is currently playing will slide towards that note. Sometimes if you have two differnet patterns using the same instrument playing at the same time, and one has a slide, you'll hear the notes from the other pattern slide as well. So, in the example above, we establish the G for a sixteenth note then slide up to C. Note that when you use slides, most of the time you want a short period to establish the starting note, and then you want to restate the note after the slide so there is a clear start and finish. Notice how this is done in the above pattern.

To create slides is simple, there is a toggle switch in the upper left hand corner, next to the color bar. It has the same triangle symbol. Click this once to turn slides on. All notes you create after slides are turned on will have the triangle symbol and be slides. Click the button again to turn slides off. Simple enough. I do wish they'd just made it affect one note and then turn off automatically, but sadly that's not so. You'll just have to remember to do it yourself.

Anyways, with that said, you should be able to create the above pattern for Electric 3. Now to put the last pieces together. Put the previously created break pattern on measure 24 and start both zen patterns and the electric one. Continue running everything to measure 31. Then put another pattern of bass and fill on measure 32. Your playlist should now look something like this...



Go ahead and listen to your song thus far. You'll notice the break is a rather neat effect, but the mix is rather off and the guitar seems to cover up everything else. The third lesson will show you how to map channels to the mixer and use it to mix and balance your song, but for now I'll show you a few more tools in the SS to keep you goin. Look at the SS for a minute. To the left of each instrument there are 3 things: A mute switch, a pan knob, and a volume knob, in that order (left to right). The first item, the mute switch, is simply a green light. All instruments are normally on, and the green light lit. To mute an instrument to temporarily take it out of the mix, simply click the green light. The light will go dim and the instrument will no longer be heard. To unmute, just click the now dim light again. It lights back up!

Next is the pan knob. You'll notice it's normally in the exact center for each instrument. Here's a quick tip about knobs in FL, and most daws. FL Studio uses what's called linear knobs. This means you click a knob, and drag the mouse up to increase its value, and down to decrease. This can be a bit strange at first, but you'll adjust quickly. Back to the SS, the first knob, next to the mute switch, controls panning. If you begin to change it, you can see the meter come up, as you increase the knob more, the meter fills to the right, indicating a pan towards the right. If you decrease, the opposite is true. The volume knob is a little different. It has a vertical meter, that rises on increase, and falls on decrease. It is not always the best choice to use these controls to fix balance problems rather than using the mixer, but it is there when you need it. Until the next lesson, if the electric guitar sounds as horribly out of balance to you as it did to me, by all means, go to that volume knob and pull it down some. note that you can tweak these knobs in realtime, while the song is playing.

Lastly, you'll notice we never named a few of those patterns. Remember what I said a while back, about it not always being easy to name patterns? Sometimes you have to make up something stupid that reminds you what the pattern is for. Come up with your own name for the remaining 3 unnamed patterns, and be creative!

And so I leave the rest up to you, take this song wherever you like - or promptly delete this piece of crap and start your own! Until the next lesson, goodbye BandAmp!!

Footnotes:
*-Note to pre-FL 6 users, fpc was added in version 6 of FL studio, so you likely won't be able to see it. Don't worry about the specific parts applying to fpc itself, but pay attention to the rest of the lesson, as it will still apply to you.


Hey, after you're done with this tutorial, how'd you like to check out the corresponding flp? You can download it here.

FL Studio Tutorial 1: The Basics images & text explained

OK, I am going to try to start a series of FL studio tutorials for those who are struggling with the program or just want to learn it. I'm pretty much just winging it on this tutorial, so there's likely to be lots of editing things in I missed and the like.

Anyways, as any good tutorial series should, I'm starting the first lesson with the basics of fl, where hopefully someone could come in thats never even heard of fl and begin using it.

First let's go over the interface. There are 5 key windows that you should know about, the Step Sequencer, mixer, Playlist, Piano Roll, and the Browser. If you notice, there are icons for each of these at the top of the screen.



you can click any of these to toggle showing the window it corresponds to. Some of these are automatically open when you start a new song, however it all depends on the way you set up your environment. I use two monitors, so I stick the step sequencer, mixer, and playlist on my right monitor, which runs at a considerably lower resolution than the left. Here's what my layout looks like, with the windows labeled.



You can see I pretty much cram everything in there to fill up the monitor. This has really helped me out. On the off chance the theres another dual monitor user out there, you might try a setup similar to this one.

Now, just for you, I'll cram the other two windows on to the screen so you can see what they look like as well.



Note that there are 2 versions of the piano roll. The one on top is a special version that maps out the drums to specific keys. You don't need to worry about messing with this, just know that you may see this when making drum patterns. The one on the bottom is what you are going to be seeing most of the time

So while we're on the topic of the Piano Roll, why not go into to detail on it? Well first we need to create an instrument to use! Go to the trusty step sequencer and right click on any of the instrument names. For this example we'll use the 3x Osc (this instrument will be rather familiar to those that have done any amount of synth programming). after right clicking, go Insert, then 3x Osc



After this you'll see the purple instrument pop up in the step sequencer, and you'll see this window pop up...



This is the main instrument window, you can get to this window for each instrument by clicking it's name in the sequencer. This is your headquarters for the instrument. Some more advanced instruments will actually have seperate windows pop up for special control unique to that instrument. For the simple 3x Osc, all the controls fit nicely in the plugin page itself. There are also other tabs which allow an extrodinary amount of control over the sound of any given instrument. Now I could go into detail on each and every button and knob, but for one thing, there are a few things in there that I still dont have a clue what they do, and for another thing the best way to learn these things is experimentation. Write yourself a little loop, let it go, and tweak away! But - you don't know how to do that yet? Well you must be reading this for the first time! Read on...



OK. If you go back to the Step Sequencer, you should now see a new instrument named "3x osc"!! Exciting! Right click on it and select Piano Roll (the first option). There it is! This pic may look a little scary at first, but that's mostly becasue I'm not much of a graphics designer o_0. Just read along and I'll explain everything. I happen to be a very visual learner myself so I like to provide aids like this to go along.
The piano roll is something you will be seeing a lot. It is used in virtually every DAW*for midi sequencing, and no matter which program you pick or move on to in the future, it's bound to have this little feature in there somewhere. Pay attention to this next part, because this is a very important concept!

The window is laid out on a 2d plane. The x axis (horizontal) is time, while the y axis (vertical) is pitch. Most of the time there is a friendly piano along the y axis to show you what particular pitch you are using. If you don't know where the notes are on a piano, no need to fret, the letter C is marked on each octave with a number indicating it's octave (C0 being the lowest, C10 being the highest). you can see C5 right at the edge of the letter h in Pitch. In most situations, you can click on the keys to trigger them on the affected instrument. Try it out, you can hear our little organ-like instrument. This also works on the keys on the main instrument window from earlier, btw! There is also a tool pallete in the upper left hand corner. The default is the pencil tool, and you aren't going to be changing it much.

To create a note click anywhere in the grid. Notes are represented by bars of any given color (green is the default, try clicking the green box in the upper left corner to change it!). After your note appears try clicking and dragging it up and down and all around!! Wow annoying o_0. But quite fun sometimes when you're stuck and very bored. Anyways, after you finish giving yourself a headache. Try right clicking the note. Ah! where did it go?! Good job, you deleted it. Go ahead and create another by left clicking on the grid again. OK, this is getting old, I know, but bear with me. To resize the note, hover over the right edge until your cursor changes to that familiar icon for resizing windows and such. Click and drag left and right to change the length of your note. This is the equivalent of changing between an 8th note or quarter note on paper (except with a lot less erasing). The grid is divided up along the x axis to help guide you in placing your notes rhythmically. The thickest white lines mark 1 of each measure, the 3 slightly thinner lines between them mark the other beats, 2 3 and 4, and the very tiny lines in between those mark each sixteenth note.

If you try resizing the note all the way over to the left, you should end up with a small green squre, that fits perfectly into any of the small squares on the grid. This is a sixteenth note. Drag it over to two squares. This is an eigth note. Drag it to fully extend from one semi-thick line to the next, and you have a quarter note! Exciting, I know. Now all you have to do is line the note up accross from the corresponding pitch on the keyboard and place it in the right place in the measure, and you're all set! Confused? keep reading...

Look at the example in the picture (yes we are still on that same picture with too much crap written all over it) Notice how each of the notes lines up with the white notes on the keyboard, starting at C3, going up to C4, and then back down. It's the good ol' C Major scale!! ^_^ Notice that the rhythm is straight eight notes until the end where we arrive back on the original note on a quarter note. Hm, the quarter note appears to be twice as long of a bar as the eighth note - go figure! If only those darn italians could've learned to write music this way** ....
then we'd end instead of a page with a bunch of lines and random circles and flags on it to a page with a grid and a bunch of random stupid bars on it. Wonderful.

Anyways, so there we go, now hopefully you have an idea of how to write out a musical idea into this sequencer and hear it played. Note that sometimes complex rhthyms take several tries to put down, it's not always simple sometimes you may find yourself counting on your fingers to see on the upbeat of what count something happens. But here's the beauty! Go ahead and punch in the piano roll our example from the image here. Now hit the spacebar. Wow, muzak!! You'll notice that much to your annoyance it continually loops over and over until you hit the spacebar again. This looping is automatic (lucky you!) and will always play through the last measure containing notes - I know that sounds confusing, but say you through a note in there way on the right edge of the screen, in measure 6. When you hit spacebar, FL would play all the way through to that note, finish measure 6, then loop back to the beginning. Try it!

OK, I know you're ready to be done with this god-forsaken window, but there's one more thing to talk about - that pane on the bottom. yes can you believe I wrote more crap on there for that too. This is where various data for each note is shown. The data is shown in the form of a bar directly under the note to which it corresponds. The default form of data for this section is velocity, and you wont' use much else very often. If you aren't familiar with midi data, values such as velocity are always a number between 0 and 127. When you create a note by the previous methods, it automatically gives it a preset velocity, 100 I believe (not entirely positive). Its about 3/4 of the way up, so you have some headroom. you can easily change the values for any note by simply clicking over the bar at the approximate velocity you want. In other words, let's say you wanted the C in the middle to be half as loud as the rest of the notes (dunno why, but oh well, it's possible!). Notice that the note is on the upbeat of 4 in the first meausre. You can also think of it as the 8th note, or the last note before the 1 bar for measure two - whatever works for you. Anyways, find the bar in the lower pane corresponding to that note, and click on the bar, about half way up. The bar shrinks to the size. Hit spacebar again to see how it sounds. You can also move the bars by clicking the white squares at the top and dragging them up and down.

DJ Tutorial, The Roll feature on the DJM-400

I likr this as you can press it at any time in the music and the best does not go off.



dj tutor dee jay tutorial mobile djm400 mixer club clubbing electro advise house

Tutorial Virtual dj para novatos en casa desde tu computador [parte 1/2]

n video para los ke apenas empiezan a agarrar esto de mezclar desde la compu.



aki les enseño ke necesitan para armar sus tokines en sus casas

nota:

Tal vez no sea muy bueno, pero espero que les sirva de algo a los ke esten iniciando en esto de mezclar con la compu.

si a alguien no le gustan los videos pss no los vea y evitense comentarios hostiles porke los borrare ya ke no puse estos videos para andar mentando madres jaja.

virtual dj tutorial vj novatos

How to cut and chop DJ Tutorial.

In this viodeo i give you a demonstration on how to go from one turntable to the other using the cross fade and i explain how by counting bars will help too!
toons are vinyl t table, Progress funk, " around my brain"
and cdj wiley " wearing me rolex"



DJ Tutorial cut chop mixing tutor tutorial ellaskins kam ddx5000 turntabalist Dance Music Technology Electronic Pop

lunes 28 de abril de 2008

tutorial de ritmos de batería en FLStudio [2da parte] manuales gratis

SECUENCIADO GENERAL. TECNICAS Y ESTILOS.

Bien, hasta ahora hemos aprendido como cargar nuestros samples y como trabajar con los distintas intensidades a la hora de hacer redobles o simplemente al montar un ritmo cualquiera.

A partir de ahora, vamos a usar un lenguaje abreviado que usaremos a la hora de explicar como secuenciar un redoble, ya que esta siempre es la parte que mas guerra da a la hora de secuenciar, y en muchos casos no se pueden mostrar todos los sonidos.

El juego de ritmos/redobles es practicamente ilimitado, y podeis crear cualquier cosa que se os antoje, aqui lo que haré será mostrar algunas de las mas frecuentes, con audio, imagen, y transcrita.

Tambien voy a tratar algunos temas delicados a la hora de secuenciar, como pueden ser el doble bombo, o los ritmos aceleradisimos tipicos del Death/Black.

Aqui os muestro la leyenda que usaremos:

Para diferenciar la intensidad del sonido que tenemos que usar, usaremos NEGRITA para golpes fuertes, MAYUSCULAS para los golpes intermedios, y minusculas para los golpes suaves.

Las partes de la bateria serán:

B=Bombo

S=Caja (Snare) Irá acompañado de una H para golpes fuertes normales, y de L o R para el brazo izquierdo o derecho respectivamente.

T=Timbal (Cualquiera)

T1, T2, T3, T4, y T5= Varia en funcion del timbal mas agudo (T1), hasta el mas grave, y mas conocido como Floor Tom (T5)

H=Charles/Hit-Hat

C=Plato Crash

R=Plato Ride

SH=Plato Spash

Por ejemplo, si os pongo: SR-SL-sr-sl, quiere decir que pondremos un golpe fuerte de caja con mano derecha, uno intermedio con mano izquierda, uno suave con mano derecha, y uno suave con mano izquierda.

El hecho de que se pida un golpe intermedio no quiere decir que tengais que usar siempre el mismo, eso ya os dije, y siempre lo diré que hay que intentar siempre no repetir sonidos.

Empezamos?

*Nota: Los ficheros de audio están alojados en un servidor de descargas, que borra los ficheros a los 30 dias en caso de ausencia de tráfico. Por si las moscas, yo guardaria los que me interesaran, y si alguien sabe empastarlos en un PDF, bienvenido sea.

REDOBLES DE CAJA:

Redoble básico con tónica en primer golpe:

Imagen

Secuencia:

SR-SL-SR-SL (Repetir las veces deseadas)

Audio:
http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21093

Redoble básico invertido con tónica en el ultimo golpe:

Imagen

Secuencia:

sr-SL-SR-SL (Repetir las veces deseadas)

Audio:
http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21103

Redoble básico con dos tónicas:

Imagen

Veis la "V" que se ha formado? Esta "V" es una forma de utilizar todos los golpes fuertes, los de tipo H, de forma realista. Os será util, sobre todo para esta tecnica, ya que podemos hacer la V en los botones 1 y 3 de cada bloque, dejando los 2 y 4 para los golpes intermedios.

Secuencia:

SH, SR, SH, SL (repetir las veces deseadas)

http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21128



Redoble ascendente + variación:

Imagen

Este no os digo la secuencia porque está bien clara. Con solo ver la imagen.

Audio:
http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21117


Termina con redobles descendentes de 4 timbales (del 1 al 4), estilo "Redoble Básico con dos tónicas", mas un bombo con crash. Dependiendo del sentimiento que se quiera dar a la parte en concreto, podemos empezar desde los golpes mas suaves, o mas intermedios, y terminar en la seccion que queramos...todo un mundo para investigar.

Todas estas tecnicas se pueden aplicar tanto en la caja como en los timbales...ahora un consejo:

La naturalidad es parte fundamental en la creación de ritmos...el hecho de que hagamos un redoble masivo que nos ocupe varios patrones no significa que tengamos que estudiar cada golpe al milimetro....ten naturalidad, aunque seas un bateria "virtual"

Seguid estos pasos:

1.- Imaginad el redoble
2.- Imaginad como lo toca el bateria.
3.- Colocad los golpes sin repetir mucho los sonidos, y variando entre golpes mas suaves y mas fuertes....
4.- Escuchaló, y si suena bien, no toques nada mas! Simplemente retoca las notas en caso de que quede poco natural, si no, no toques nada mas!.

Ejemplo de varios patrones constantes con redobles variados (solo los vistos hasta ahora:

http://z10.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... epath=6549


REDOBLES MIXTOS

Redoble mixto caja + timbal:

Secuencia:

Es el resultado de la combinación de 4 golpes de caja y 4 de timbal, escritos con la forma "Redoble básico con dos tónicas"

Audio:
http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21592

Redoble a dos golpes mixto caja + timbal:

Secuencia:

SR - SL - T - t

Audio:

http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21597

Tambien podemos hacerlo INVERTIDO:

Secuencia:

T - t - SR - SL

Audio:

http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21598

DOBLE BOMBO + TIMBAL, O PARADIDDLE DE PIE Y BRAZO


Secuencia:

T2 - T3 - B - B (Repetir las veces deseadas)

Audio (con una caja al inicio)

http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21607


ALGUNOS RITMOS PROBLEMATICOS:

Bien, hemos visto una extensa seleccion de redobles basicos para casi cualquier estilo.

Estos, unidos a los redobles que vamos escuchando en discos, o los de nuestra propia cosecha, nos dará una rica variedad en nuestras creaciones, la unica limitación es tu imaginación.

Vamos a ver ahora algunos tipos de ritmos que nos pueden dar problemas a la hora de secuenciar, y formas para solucionarlos:

1.- Ritmo con charles cerrado y silenciar.

Hay muchos estilos musicales en los que el bateria toca patrones con el charles cerrado, lo abre para marcar un cambio, y luego vuelve a cerrarlo. Si nosotros intentamos hacer esto, nos daremos cuenta que el plato abierto que colocamos, no se silencia al usar de nuevo un golpe de charles cerrado.

La forma de solucionar esto es la siguiente:

Nos vamos al primer charles cerrado que tengamos, y en la pestaña "Misc", nos fijamos en las opciones "Cut", y "Cut By":

Imagen

Estos datos significan lo siguiente: "Cut", es el "cortante", el numero que se asigna al sample para cortar el sonido, y "cut By" se refiere a "cortado por", o el numero de sample cortante que corta este sonido.

Deberiamos tener un número ya asignado, si no lo tenemos, se lo colocamos. Pongamos como ejemplo el número 12.

Ahora lo que tenemos que hacer, es ir al sonido mas fuerte que tengamos para charles abierto, y en la misma ventana, poner el 12 en la pestaña "Cut By".
Con esto lo que hacemos es, que cuando suene este charles abierto, en el momento en que suene el cerrado (el nº 12), el sonido anterior se cortará:
Muestra de audio aplicada a un ritmo:

http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21626

2.- Doble bombo

Sin problema. No pongais un mismo sample hasta el infinito. Para eso tienes mil sonidos distintos...

Usa esta secuencia para los bombos:

Imagen

Audio:

http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21631

3.- Ritmos rapidos Death/Black:

El problema que tienen estos ritmos suele ser que al usar de forma tan rapida la caja, suele notarse demasiado que estamos usando una bateria de broma.

Esto lo solucionamos usando la caja de esta forma:

Imagen

En los huecos que quedan vacios, usamos el bombo (lo de siempre, no hay que poner siempre el mismo), y acompañamos con charles.

Ejemplo:

http://z13.zupload.com/download.php?fil ... path=21639



FIN DE LA SEGUNDA PARTE

Ya hemos finiquitado esta segunda parte. Para la tercera, veremos el estilo de algunos baterias famosos, y consecuentemente, la forma de ecualizar directamente partes de la bateria, y como hacer otro tipo de redoble llamado "Triplets", ademas de como usar los sonidos que trae Fruity Loops para hacer ritmos "Tribales", y simular cajas y timbales que nada tienen que ver con un kit de bateria.

Hasta entonces, disfrutad con esta segunda parte.

Manual tutorial de FL Studio 6.0.8 XXL para novatos para principantes free tutorials

como inciarse en fl studio con tutoriales textuales con imagenes...

Al fin comienzo este tutorial de creación de ritmos, el cual creo que será muy util a muchos hispasonicos.
Muchos me habeis preguntado como consigo crear de forma tan realista las baterias, y eso es lo que quiero tratar principalmente, teniendo como secuenciador el Fruity Loops Studio 6.0.

El tutorial está pensado principalmente para el Rock, Hard Rock, Metal en todas sus variantes, etc, pero una vez tenemos las bases y los conocimientos, no es dificil crear baterias para cualquier estilo (Pop, Blues, Jazz...), aunque quizá los samples que voy a tratar no sean los mas adecuados.

Estas librerias de samples se llaman DRUMKIT FROM HELL, y son una potentisima herramienta de cara a crear baterias dinámicas, energicas, y adecuadas para el estilo que queremos.

Dumkit From Hell viene en formato *.WAV, es una colección de infinidad de samples para cada uno de los componentes de una bateria, grabados como golpes simples, con varios grados de intensidad y en función del brazo o pie que toca la pieza.

Estas son las partes en las que se compondrá el tutorial:

1.- DRUMKIT FROM HELL Y LA CARGA DE SAMPLES
2.- SECUENCIADO GENERAL. TECNICAS Y ESTILOS
3.- IMITANDO A LOS GRANDES.
a) Joey Jordison de Slipknot
b) Igor Cavalera de Sepultura
c) Lars Ulrich de Metallica


Empezamos...

1.- DRUMKIT FROM HELL Y LA CARGA DE SAMPLES


Lo primero que debemos hacer, es saber lo que tenemos en la carpeta del programa, y cargar los samples de forma adecuada en Fruity Loops.

Os habreis fijado en que este programa no tiene programa de instalación, y se basa en varias carpetas que se encuentran dentro del directorio donde hayamos descomprimido el programa.

Nos encontraremos lo siguiente (trataré solo lo que necesitamos, ya que los formatos de los bancos de samples no son compatibles con Fruity Loops):

a) cDrumkit From Hell: En esta carpeta tenemos todos los samples de Fruity Loops, con sonido "Close", es decir, un sonido cercano y calido de la bateria, y es en el que se basa el tutorial.
b) DFH Banks
c) DFH Drummaps
d) Manual
e) rDrumkit From Hell:Estos son exactamente los mismos samples que los de la carpeta "cDrumkit From Hell", pero con sonido "Room", o "sala". Son sonidos sin procesar, y si sois unos magos de la ecualización, debeis usar estos samples para añadir posteriormente vuestro procesado.

Estas carpetas contienen los distintos componentes de la bateria. Tenemos 4 tipos diferentes de bombo, todos de Sonor, al igual que los timbales.

Para las cajas hay bastante mas variedad, hay 14 tipos distintos de dos marcas diferentes, Pearl, y Sonor.

Para los platos y hit-hats la cosa es mas reducida, ya que solo disponemos de equipo Sabian, cosa que por otra parte, no creo que disguste a nadie.

Dicho esto, vamos a proceder a cargar los samples. Aunque cargar tantos samples parezca en un principio una tarea larga y pesada, no nos llevará mas de 15 minutos colocarlos todos.

PASO A PASO

a) Si queremos hacer la tarea mas facil, vamos a la carpeta donde tengamos instalado el DKFH, seleccionamos la carpeta "cDrumkit From Hell" y "rDrumkit From Hell", pulsamos el botón derecho y picamos despues en "cortar"

b) Ahora nos vamos al directorio donde tengamos instalado el Fruity Loops. Esta carpeta puede variar en función de la version de Fruity que tengamos. Abrimos la carpeta "Data", "Patches", y por ultimo, "Packs". Por ultimo pulsamos el boton derecho en un area vacia y seleccionamos "Pegar".

Una vez hecho esto, abrimos el Fruity Loops. Si no nos ha salido por defecto un panel vacío, pulsamos en "File"--->"Templates"---->"Empty"

c) Una vez dentro, pulsamos en "Options", y luego en "Project General Settings"

Imagen

En la primera barra veremos que nos aparece "Time Signature". Cambiamos el valor "Bar", a 64. Con esto aumentamos el número de barras que tenemos en el panel principal, lo que nos da mayor comodidad a la hora de componer los patrones. "Beat", se refiere al nº de botones de cada color que encontraremos en la barra. Esto sirve de guia en caso de que queramos variar el ritmo (3x4, 4x4, etc), pero debemos dejarlo como está para este tutorial. Mas adelante podemos variar estos datos a nuestro gusto y en funcion de nuestro estilo.

d) Cerramos la ventana y nos vamos de nuevo a la pantalla principal. Ahora pulsamos F8, o bien pulsamos en el comando "View", y luego en "Browser"
En el buscador que acaba de abrirse, pulsamos sobre "Packs", y veremos que están las carpetas de sonidos de Fruity Loops, + Las que acabamos de pegar:

Imagen

Bien, ahora que tenemos el directorio a mano, vamos a proceder a cargar los samples, por orden.

Mi forma de colocarlos es: Bombo, charles, caja, timbales, platos y percusiones accesorias. Si os gusta mas otro tipo de disposición, no hay problema, podeis ponerlo a vuestro gusto, pero la forma en que os voy a explicar va ordenada como dije antes.

VAMOS A CARGAR SONIDOS, DIFERENCIANDOLOS POR PIEZA E INTENSIDAD:

Si ya habeis abierto la carpeta de samples dentro de Fruity, os habreis dado cuenta que han salido infinidad de sonidos en el browser:

Imagen

Pulsad sobre los sonidos sin miedo, no muerden...vereis que hay de todo...platos, cajas, bombos, etc.
Los que ahora nos interesa son la base de nuestros ritmos: El bombo.

Desplazaos hacia abajo y buscad los samples "cSonor Kick". Estan por orden alfabético, asi que no habrá problema.
Fijaos en que hay varios grupos de "Sonor Kick", el número inmediatamente posterior a la palabra "Kick", es el nº de bombo, y el nº siguiente "RX o LX" (donde la x se sustituye por un nº), indica el pie con el que se golpea y la intensidad, siendo 1 el mas debil, y el numero mayor el mas fuerte.

A cargar se ha dicho...

Yo voy a usar el nº 3, pero podeis usar el que mas os guste. Ahora teneis que pulsar el botón derecho sobre el sample "cSonor Kick3 R06", y sobre el menú desplegable, pulsad sobre "Open In New Channel".
Ya tenemos el primer sample cargado. Ahora hacemos lo mismo con el "R05" (ya que esta intensidad no la tenemos para el pie izquierdo).
Despues, cargamos el L05, R04, L04...vamos cargando todas las intensidades del bombo nº 3, por orden descendente, y alternando izquierda y derecha. Parece una tonteria, pero nos será muy util de cara a programar las baterias.

Una vez terminemos nos tiene que quedar como en la foto. Probad a encender las mismas casillas que yo, pulsad en play, para que os vayais familiarizando con las intensidades:

Imagen

Bien, pues ahora hay que subir hacia arriba en el browser, y buscar "c14 Rckhts C1 05", y cargadlos todos hasta el 01.
Estos son sonidos de charles cerrado, son pocos, pero nos podemos apañar muy bien con ellos. Probad ahora este patrón:

Imagen

Fijaos como estamos ya jugando con las intensidades, hemos usado 5 sonidos distintos de bombo, y 4 de charles, e incluso así, no queda irreal.

Un truco muy util es no volver a usar un mismo sonido hasta haber usado 3 distintos. Pero de eso hablaremos mas adelante.

Vamos a cargar el resto de samples, para ponernos manos a la obra lo mas rapido posible.

Volvemos al explorador de sonidos, el browser.

Buscad los samples "cRckhts OX", y a cargar. Este es el mismo charles, abierto. Un poco mas abajo teneis unos cuantos con la coletilla "Pdl". Cargad un par de ellos porque tambien serán utiles.

Buscad el sample "cAyotte", que es una caja. Desde aquí hasta "cSonor DS", son todos sonidos de caja, asi que nos vamos al que mas nos guste. Yo voy a usar la Sensitone de Pearl(cSensitone).

Para las cajas, tenemos varios tipos de sonido, en el caso de las Pearl Sensitone, las coletillas son: H para sonidos fuertes de caja, pero variables en sonido y forma. Estos los usaremos para los ritmos comunes principales. R y L son samples tocados con la mano derecha e izquierda respectivamente, ordenados por intensidad. M, son sonidos que emulan un golpe incorrecto del bateria, tambien muy utiles, y Rl se refiere a "Roll", o la vibracion que se produce al colocar suavemente la baqueta sobre la caja. Tambien muy util.

Cargamos todos los samples de H, los R y L de la forma que dije antes, los M, y los Rl.

Una vez hecho esto buscamos los "cSonor Tom", siendo 1 el mas agudo, y 5 el mas grave. Volvemos a hacer lo mismo, cargamos todos empezando por el nº 1, ordenados de forma descendiente en intensidad, y variando derechos e izquierdos.

Animo, ya falta poco...solo los platos.

Cargamos los "c19 Cshrd", y los "c20 Cshrd" (platos de 19 y 22), ahora los "c15 AAExtreme" y los "c15 18 Spock".

El mejor consejo aquí es que cada uno cargue los que mas le gusten. Fijaos tambien que teneis un plato ride y una campana para acompañar. Cargadlos tambien si quereis, los trataremos igual que los charles, ya que su funcion principalmente es acompañar

Al fin terminamos de cargar!! Podeis cerrar ya el browser.
A estas alturas, teneis un chorreón de samples dispersos por el programa. Para no perderos, tened siempre activado el piano por teclado:

Imagen

Con esta utilidad, podemos usar el teclado del PC de la forma en que suena un piano. La tecla "Q", es "DO", el sonido sin alterar. Cuando señalemos un sample, pusando la tecla "Q" escucharemos que sonido es, algo que nos será muy util para no perdernos en esta maraña de sonidos e intensidades.

Ha sido cansino y agotador, verdad? Solo una cosa mas. Vamos a bajar un poco el volumen de los platos y el charles, ya que estos suenan un poco alto respecto a como deberian sonar. Debeis bajar el volumen de todos los platos y charles para que queden tal como en la foto:

Imagen

Tambien podeis tocar los volumenes a vuestro gusto.

Hasta aqui la carga de samples. Para no perder todo este trabajo, guardad el proyecto para poder cargarlo cuando os apetezca. Siempre que hagais un nuevo proyecto, empezad cargando este, pero nunca lo sobreescribais. Esta debe ser la base sobre la que empezar todo proyecto.

UN POCO DE SECUENCIADO Y FIN DE LA PRIMERA PARTE

Bien, ya hemos terminado de cargar y preparar todos los samples.

Ahora van unos cuantos consejos de cara a la futura secuenciación:


Ante todo, hay que evitar repetir demasiado un mismo sample, ya que para ello acabamos de cargar multitud de samples distintos...
Si en un redoble metemos muy seguidos dos sonidos exactamente iguales, perderemos naturalidad, y obtendremos ese sonido "maquinal" que tan poco nos gusta.
El oido no puede distinguir dos sonidos iguales de bateria si están separados en el tiempo, mientras que son totalmente perceptibles si están colocados de forma muy seguida.

Si quieres usar un tempo concreto, multiplica el valor por 2. ESE es el valor que tienes que poner en tu regulador de tempo en Fruity Loops. ¿Por que? Muy sencillo. Aunque usemos un ritmo lento, siempre habrá algun momento en que nos apetecerá incluir un redoble muy rapido, y esto nos será imposible a un tempo muy bajo, a no ser que usemos el Piano Roll, el cual nos dará mas de un quebradero de cabeza.
Mi recomendación es que mantengais siempre un valor entre 160-240, valido para practicamente cualquier canción.

Poned siempre mucho mimo hasta en el ultimo detalle, por absurdo que parezca. Es la clave para distinguir entre una bateria maquinal y una que parece casi real.

Antes de terminar esta parte, vamos a crear un creible redoble de bateria, el cual nos abrirá bastante la mente al objetivo final. Probad siempre vuestras propias combinaciones, ya que incluso un bateria virtual tiene su propio estilo.

Vamos a crear un ritmo acabado en redoble, seguido por una variación del mismo ritmo, y otro redoble totalmente distinto.

Empezamos con un primer ejercicio:

1.- Con Fruity abierto y nuestros samples totalmente cargados, nos vamos al selector de tempo y lo ponemos a 220:

Imagen

2.- Nos vamos a los sonidos de charles abiertos (rckhts O), y colocamos un sonido fuerte por cada ocho botones de activacion (uno en cada agrupación de color azul). Yo he usado solo 2 sonidos fuertes, pero nunca suenan seguidos.
Despues, ponemos un sonido mas debil al comienzo de cada agrupación marrón.

Al principio del todo vamos a meter también un crash de plato, ya que es el inicio de un fraseo. Ahora bien, esto es MUY importante.
El bateria real no tiene tres brazos, por lo tanto, debemos borrar el primer sonido de charles que habiamos puesto. El bateria no puede estar golpeando un plato y el charles a la misma vez. Tambien podemos colocar otro plato en la penultima caja para dar mas enfasis al resultado final.

Debe quedarnos algo como esto (el plato no aparece al estar muy separado respecto a los sonidos del charles):

Imagen

3.- Ahora vamos a colocar la caja (cSensitone) en su lugar correspondiente. Aqui tenemos que usar los sonidos "H", que son la caja tocada con golpe fuerte, pero variante en cuanto a sonido. Lo colocamos de esta forma. No se como explicar su colocación exacta en palabras, y puede resultar algo lioso. Si veis la imagen, y con un poco de oido, no tiene ningún misterio.

Imagen

4.- Colocamos el bombo a nuestro gusto, poniendo el golpe mas fuerte cada 4 sonidos de charles, lo que pondrá el enfasis necesario en el ritmo. Podeis probar con este:

Imagen

5.- Tenemos el ritmo principal montado y solo queda el redoble, del cual empezamos montando la caja sobre el ultimo golpe de caja que habiamos colocado.

Vereis que este ultimo golpe está sobre un bloque azul. Dejamos un botón en blanco y ponemos otro golpe de la misma serie (H), en el tercer botón del bloque. En el 2º y 4º botón vamos a colocar dos golpes intermedios tocados con brazo izquierdo (L), ya que por logica, y si imitamos el ritmo que hemos creado con nuestros brazos, vereis que esos golpes corresponden al brazo izquierdo. Esto no es una norma fija, pero de momento lo haremos así. Mirad el ejemplo si estais algo perdidos:

Imagen

6.- En el siguiente bloque, de color marrón, montaremos el timbal mas agudo. Repetiremos el mismo patron: Golpes fuertes para el primer y tercer botón, y golpes mas moderados para el 2º y cuarto botón. Para los golpes fuertes, NO useis los golpes a tope de intensidad, ya que, volviendo a la piel del bateria, este no toca a tanta intensidad y hariamos el ya citado efecto maquina. Os recomiendo los golpes de intensidad 3 y 2 para esta tarea.

Imagen

7.- Ahora hacemos lo mismo con el timbal nº 2 y el nº 3, para los dos ultimos bloques.
Imagen

El resultado es brutal, verdad?

Vamos a variar un poco el ritmo:

8.- Fijaos que a la derecha del cuadro que contiene el nombre del sample, el que está con los ajustes de volumen y pan, tiene una luz verde, que indica que sample tenemos seleccionado. Hacemos click sobre el botón que tengamos encendido, y vereis que acabamos de seleccionar todos los samples. Bien, ahora pulsamos "Crtl + C" (copiar).

Al lado del selector de tempo, está el selector de patrón, o "pattern". Pasamos al patrón nº 2. Ahora pulsando "Crtl + V" (pegar), acabamos de copiar en este 2º patron el ritmo que habiamos hecho.

9.- Ahora podemos variar un poco los bombos. Si colocamos dos golpes de bombo justo antes de la caja, dará un "efecto doble bombo" muy bueno, y muy usado en el Rock/Metal. El mio queda tal que así:

Imagen

Ahora borramos los dos ultimos bloques correspondientes al redoble del timbal nº 2 y el nº 3, para usar otra técnica.

Lo que haremos ahora es colocar 2 golpes suaves/intermedios de caja X 2 de timbal, en lugar de los 4 de timbal que teniamos antes, usando esta vez en los huecos de timbal el nº 3 y el nº 4

El redoble final seria:

4 golpes de caja + 4 golpes de timbal agudo + 2 golpes de caja y 2 de timbal nº 3 + 2 golpes de caja y 2 de timbal nº4.

Si descomponemos por golpes queda lo siguiente:

4 golpes de caja (1 golpe fuerte, 1 intermedio, 1 fuerte, 1 intermedio) + 4 golpes de timbal (1 interm, 1 suave, 1 interm, 1 suave) + 2 golpes de caja y 2 de timbal nº 3 (1 interm, 1 suave, 1 interm, 1 suave) + 2 golpes de caja y 2 de timbal nº 4 (1 interm, 1 suave, 1 interm, 1 suave).

Una vez hecho esto, solo falta enlazar el patrón uno con el dos, marcar la casilla "song", y pulsar en play. Podeis ponerlo 2 veces para alargar un poco el ritmo. El editor de patrones se abre con la tecla F5, y hay que ser muy cuidadoso colocando los bloques para no perder la continuidad:

Imagen

Debe quedaros algo muy parecido a la muestra de audio adjunta en el mensaje.

Esto es todo por hoy. La siguiente parte irá dedicada al secuenciado general, y a un repaso por algunas tecnicas de bateria y como crear ritmos para distintos estilos metálicos (Heavy, Power, Numetal, Death, Black, etc.), y un poco de EQ.

En el siguiente os voy a enseñar a utilizar los distintos sonidos de DKFH para crear otras percusiones, tales como las percusiones adicionales de Slipknot, o los sonidos tribales de Igor Cavalera.

Espero que os sirva de ayuda este tutorial. Para los mas avanzados quizá esta primera parte os haya servido de muy poco, pero prefiero tratar el tema desde el principio antes de entrar totalmente en harina.

Setting Up Your Electric Guitar

Hello and welcome to the guide to setup and maintain your guitar. I hope you find this article informative and fun.

Before you start:

If you are a beginner or an advanced player, you may feel uncomfortable with some of these procedures. If this is the case, have it done by a pro, it may cost a bit but it will be worth every penny in terms of feel and playability

What you will need:

01. Cleaning oil
02. Lint free cloth
03. A capo
04. Relevant truss rod hex key/ allen key/ wrench
05. A set of your preferred strings
06. Cross head and flat screwdrivers
07. Set of small allen keys
08. Feeler gauge (avaliable from DIY shops)
09. Snips/Pliers
10. String winders
11. A tuner
12. A small cleaner brush.

Utilisation of these pieces of equiptment will make the job a lot easie




Step 1: Clean Your Guitar

First up, remove your old strings. If your guitar has a vibrato unit, you made need to use the appropriate block/spacers/ to keep in in place when the strings are removed.

Wipe off any finger marks, sweat residue etc from the body and neck. Pay particular attention to build ups of grime and sweat etc (these are usually found close to the frets and pick ups.)

Remove all dust from around the hardware, pickups and controls using a soft brush (a shaving brush works well.) If you want to do this quicker, use a can of compressed air to blow away dust, hair and other small objects that may scratch when you wipe it over for the final time.

Step 2: Fit New Strings

For standard machine heads:

  • Run the string through the bridge, over the saddle and then pull it through.

  • Thread the string through the peg, pulling the ball end/bullet as far as it will come. Leave some slack between the bridge and the peg.

  • Keeping the slack tension with your right hand, wind the string on so that each succesive wind goes underneath the last (use your thumb and index thinger to the guide the string whilst keeping tension with your other fingers.)

    For Locking pegs:

  • Just pull the strings through tight then either tighten the locking mechanism or just wind on and let the peg tighten itself

  • Trim off the excess

    For slot head pegs (on some fenders):

  • Pull the string through the bridge until the ball end/bullet will come as far as it will come. Pull it relativley tight and line it up with the correct machine head.

  • Trim the string leaving about 3 inches behind the relative machine head.

  • Insert the string into the peg slot, and push the end right into the post. Then bend the string down and around the bottom of the post. Then simply wind, trying to keep one coil above the other.

    Tune your guitar using the tuner.

    After you have replaced your strings, remember to stretch them after tuning and then tune up again.

    Step 3: Neck Relief And Truss Rod Tweaks

    Guitar necks should have a slight curve to them. So it curves slightly away from the strings.

  • On cheaper guitars, necks seem to need constant adjustment, even expensive ones too, but usually some never need it.

  • With you guitar in the playing position, put the capo on the first fret, then hold down the 6th string at the 16th fret. Measure the distance between the bottom of the string and the top of the fret at the 8th fret. You can use a feeler gauge, but if you dont have one, you looking for approximately the width of the high E string which is about 1/64 of an inch.

  • If it is not at 1/64 inch, the you will need to adjust your truss rod.

  • If the distance is greater than the desired measurment, tighten the rod for less relief.

  • If the distance is less, loosen the rod for more relief.

  • Dont make any single adjustment of more than one quarter turn at a time before re measuring. When you think its right, strum a couples of chords, then re check.

    Please note that truss rods, unlike strings, do not need to settle.

    Step 4: Setting The Action

    The playing action is the gap between the underside of the string and the top of the fret. It determines how much you push the string down. Some dont like it low because, it makes buzzing noises! Some like it low as it is effortless to fret notes. And vice versa. But if you dont like how your action is..... adjust it:

  • For Fenders:

    Measure at the top of the 17th ftet.

    Fenders suggested action are as follows:

    Neck radius - 7.25"
    Bass side - 5/64"
    Treble Side - 4/64"

    Neck radius - 9.5" - 12"
    Bass side - 4/64"
    Treble side - 3/64

  • For Gibsons:

    Measure at the top of the 12th fret

    Gibsons reccomended action is:

    Bass side: 5/64"
    Treble side: 3/64"

    To adjust these, Fender saddles require a small allen key, whilst gibsons sport a tune o matic which you only need to rotate a thumb wheel.

    Remember to slacken the strings first.

    Step 5: Pickup Height

    Something over looked by may plays is something that helps get the best tone from you guitar.

    Standard single coil - Bass side 5/64" - Treble Side 4/64"
    High output single coil - Bass side 7/64" - Treble Side 6/64"
    Humbuckers - Bass side 4/64" - Treble Side 4/64"

    Thats about it!

    Hope it helped. Thanks for reading.

  • The Metronome: Meet Your New Best Friend!

    In my last article, "How the Pros Practice", I talked about how to optimize your practice time in order to be successful in the studio. I received a lot of feedback about it. Most people thanked me for the valuable information. Others disagreed with my stance, stating that it was too harsh, and that it took the fun out of practicing and recording. In response to these concerns, I can only say "welcome to the music business"! It reminds me of a quote I heard about an adult film director who said: "I don't pay the actors to have a good time. I pay them to look as if they were having a good time." It turns out that the music business is amazingly similar! Artists are masters of presenting a certain image and mystique. What they don't reveal is just how much work goes into making it all look so natural and easy!


    One of the prime skills to develop as a musician is in playing tightly to a metronome. Unfortunately, too many players don't fully grasp the use and purpose of the metronome. Not only are many individuals uncertain of how to use it, but many people are unaware of why is so important to become very well acquainted with one of the most valuable tools in your arsenal! Plenty of information about how to use the metronome has already been written, so I don't intend to rehash popular exercises here, but I would like to expand on what the metronome means to us as modern musicians and suggest some tips on how to maximize your efforts in developing tightness.



    A metronome is a device that helps musicians play at a steady tempo, that is to say, at the speed that was intended by the composer.

    Have a look any "official" music score and you should see it at the very beginning of the piece.

    The "Heavy Rock" part is a description of what kind of feel the composer is looking for. This is fairly subjective but it helps steer the player in the right direction. Following that is the tempo indication. It states that one quarter note, or one beat, occurs exactly 156 times in one minute. Hence, we would say that this piece is played at 156 Beats Per Minute (BPM). That is great to know, but it would be very difficult to estimate with any precision how fast this actually is. This is where the metronome comes in. Its raison d'être is to provide a audio or visual cue as to how often each beat occurs. Visual cues are usually some kind of blinking light, whereas audio ones could be a beeping or clicking sound. In fact, many modern digital metronomes include both.

    Two Styles Of Metronomes

  • A Windup Metronome:

  • A Digital Metronome:

    Modern Applications

    There is a lot more to using the metronome than simply sampling a few bars to get the tempo of a song. In fact, the metronome is quite essential to all musical activities these days. You can thank artist/guitarist extraordinaire/inventor Les Paul for elevating the status of the metronome from a mere device for providing tempos to the indispensable live and studio tool that it is today. You may have heard that he is the creator of multitracking, which is the process of recording one track at a time and then mixing them together afterwards. Before the advent of multitracking, bands would all get in a soundproof room, place a microphone in the center of them, and record a few good takes to choose from. Multitracking allowed each instrument to be recorded separately for the first time. This approach had a number of advantages, but it also meant that there had to be a steady pulse for everyone to follow. The multitracking process is used to produce the vast majority of CDs today.

    Multitracking necessitates being able to play with a far greater accuracy than was required in the early days of recording.

    The typical modern procedure for recording a song goes like this: The band will spend some time playing the song to a metronome to determine its tempo. Once a consensus has been reached, a metronome track will be recorded for guidance. This is what's referred to as the click track. In digital recording, there is no need to record anything because the click can be set and played during recording and even during playback. When viewed on the screen, each track will be stacked from top to bottom and will extend from left to right. Time intervals can be denoted in time or in bars and beats. These divisions are what's known as "the grid".

    Usually, instruments are recorded in order from the most rhythm-centric to most melodic - E.G.: drums, bass, guitars, keyboards, vocals. However, because of the grid, it is possible to record in pretty much any order. That's one of the reasons that recording is done this way today. If you have a famous session drummer flying in to do tracking in two weeks, why hold up production? As long as the bass and guitars are in time, they will sync up. For this purpose, a scratch drum track can be recorded using a drum program or machine. This would be replaced later by the real drums. You can see why it would be beneficial to be able to play very tightly to a click!

    As I mentioned in my last article, amateur musicians tend to shy away from using click tracks because they falsely believe that it will take away the feel. This assumption is based on inexperienced players' tendency to try to chase the individual clicks rather than feeling the groove of the pulses. Having recorded guitar tracks myself over drums that were not recorded to a click, I'm not sure why anyone would put themselves through the hell of trying to sync up a riff with uneven drums! The truth is that recordings done this way will almost always sound sloppy and will take three times longer to record. The exception is highly skilled players who record everything at once to capture more interaction between the instruments. Unless you've done at least ten CDs using a click track, I don't recommend that you even think about experimenting with recording without one! The fact is that, even bands who do record everything at once or that use an analog system to get that old school warmth, still need to be extremely tight because it is standard practice to have a professional digital editor go over everything to clean up the tracks. When the difference between tight and sloppy tracks can cost in the tens of thousands of dollars, you can bet that no record company would let you put down anything less than near perfect parts.

    For the reasons stated above,

    no matter what instrument or style of music you play, it is crucial that you can play very tightly to a click.

    In a live setting, you can get away with playing without a metronome, but you may not have considered all the circumstances that would necessitate playing to a click live. The most common is the dreaded live "speed up" phenomenon which can affect even the most seasoned musicians. A cheering crowd and adrenaline rush can make for a more energetic performance than you were prepared for! The solution is to have the drummer wear an earpiece with a click. The rest of the band don't need to wear one, since they can follow the drummer. Oddly enough, I haven't met many drummers, or even whole bands for that matter, who want to do this. They say that it takes too much effort to follow the metronome and it takes away from the enjoyment of the live experience. This is a very interesting response because it highlights the difference between playing for fun and playing professionally. It does take some getting used to, but the difference is a loosey-goosey "bar" band sound versus a tight pro sound.

    The other common scenarios for using a click live are when sequencing is involved such as time sensitive lighting or sound effects and live recording. If you release CDs, there comes a time when you will want to release a live CD and/or DVD. Just check out most any professional live recordings and I think you'll find that the playing is surprisingly solid. That's because the drummer is almost certainly playing to a click! If not, he or she undoubtedly practices to one regularly.

    More On Practicing For Tightness

    I have discovered something interesting about tight players. They all spend a lot of time recording! In my early days as a musician, I practiced to a metronome when I was getting ready to record and the odd time that the mood struck me, which wasn't all that often! This did very little to help my timing at all. It seems that playing along to a metronome will not do wonders for you by itself. At best, it will make your live performances more solid. It was not until I put together a home studio and began to use it every day that I started to see some real progress. Having read interviews and spoken to some of the best players, I have come to realize that the habitual recording to a click is what separates the really tight players from the so-so ones. It acts as a mirror to your playing that does not lie. All too often, players will only hear what they want to hear when playing a part!

    Recording a part forces you to listen to the sounds that your hands are actually producing as opposed to what you're hearing in your head.

    Here is the process that many pros follow when perfecting and recording a part:

    The first step is to play along to the metronome or drum machine for about fifteen minutes or until you feel that the part sounds as noise free and tight as you can play it. After you've recorded a few satisfactory takes, listen back to them. If you're like me, you'll be amazed by all the ways which the part could sound a lot better than you thought it did! Once you have ascertained what needs to be improved upon, repeat the whole process again and listen a second time. The kinds of changes that I personally would make (as a guitar player) will usually consists of tightening, picking more clearly, eliminating string and position shifting noises, as well as making minor changes to the part to make it sound clearer. This iterative process can continue up to a half-dozen times. Sometimes I come back to a part a few days later as well. Even a pretty good sounding part will improve with a couple more sessions. In other words, you can always play tighter and better!

    Tightness is not just about following a click track to a very exacting degree, but it is also about clearly enunciating each note and making what's in your head come across on "tape". The tightest players happen to be the ones who spend a lot of time working on this very skill. Whether you're a hobbyist or a full-time pro, you can't go wrong by recording yourself over a click track - often. Until next time, happy practicing!

  • domingo 27 de abril de 2008

    A Recording Engineer's Guide to Professional Recording Tips What To Expect

    Okay, just to start this off, I haven't been on UG for a coupla years, my last article was published in 2003, so i haven't kept up with any articles and discussions going on here obviously. However just to give my background, i'm an Audio engineer who works mainly freelance and have worked woth some pretty big names, but started off as a musician self-taught in guitar and bass.

    Now, I've run my fair share of recording sessions, some with professional artists signed to major and indie labels, some with local bands trying to get their name in the local music scene. I've been involved in very professional settings, and very lax settings, very professional artists, and others who don't know a microphone from their own foot. The following are just some tips on what you could do to make the engineer's life and yours a little easier during the long and arduous recording process. A lot of these examples I have personally seen, and if I come off as sounding harsh and parental in saying "Don't" a lot, forgive me, but some people need to be told, strictly because they have no idea of what to do and most imporantly, what NOT to do

    Firstly, before you even consider coming into the studio, make sure you're rehearsed. I can't stress this enough. You save time, you save yourself a headache, and you save the engineer a lot of time sitting there waiting for you to see if you can remember your part. This is very basic however it's necessary to point out: come in prepared to play your part perfectly with your eyes closed and in any situation. You may have to play it slightly differently or make modifications depending on what the producer and engineer discuss, however make sure you know your part well enough to be able to build on it.

    Secondly, another important thing to think about before you even walk into a studio. When you know you have a recording session booked, and you know you're going into a recording studio ahead of time, then do a couple of basic things to make sure you and your instrument are at the best you can get them before you go in. For guitarists: if you have time, get your guitar set up, put new strings on it, give it a polish, and have a backup guitar or 2 ready if necessary. Make sure your amps and pedals are working correctly and that you know how to move your rig around without spending an hour setting it up when you should be recording. Same goes for bassists and other string instruments: get your intonation right, get new strings, get your rig ready to go. Drummers, tune your set if you know how, and if not get someone else to do it for you. I can't stress the importance of a properly tuned drum set in a recording. Use some cleaners for your cymbals to brighten them, or throw em around if you want a deader dull sound, all your preference. Vocalists - try not to go out drinking and puke the night before you have to belt a chorus, it makes everyones jobs difficult.

    Everyone involved should get good rest, drink plenty of water, and get laid if you can the night before to make sure you come in stress free, relaxed, and focused on nothing but the music you need to play. (Dead serious about the laid thing, I once had an artist come in and was antsy to go see his girlfriend that night and couldn't focus at all on what he was playing, resulting in about a dozen takes of a relatively simple part.) Hangovers will always slow a session down, and if you're paying by the hour, you want to be as concise as possible while still doing things right.

    Next up, be professional when you come into the recording studio. Try not to bring anyone you don't Need to have there, example, obviously you want to bring your band to discuss the project and how things should be going, but do you really need to bring your high school music teacher through to show them the studio? Especially during the setup time, when the engineer is setting up microphones and wires and arranging the space, you want to give them as much leeway and time to concentrate if you want the recording to come out well. An engineer cannot focus on how the room ambience can best be picked up if you have a bandmate's girlfriend nagging him about what the shiny lights do.

    Another thing about setup time, this is the time where you tell the engineer exactly what you want to hear, how you want to sound on the recording, so they can set up the room and microphones and your environment to make you as comfortable as possible, and give you the best sound. Common courtesy - always ask if you can smoke for example, plenty of studios allow smoking, but plenty don't. Don't expect them to change the rules for you - lots of the equipment used in recording shouldn't be exposed to smoke to prolong its life. An absolute rule in the studio: when in doubt, ask. If you don't know what it does, don't touch it.

    Now once you're properly set up with microphones and headphones in an isolation room or a live room, you can adjust things to make sure you're the most comfortable while playing. If you want to stand up, sit down, hop around, and all that, make sure to tell the engineer. Golden Rule: do not touch the microphones once they are set up. The microphones are set up where they are for a reason. To add to that, don't hang your headphones on the microphone stand, but try to make everything else comfortable for yourself. If you'd like candles lit, or the lights in the room dimmed, or want a picture of something to focus on placed somewhere, ask and we'll take care of it. If you're comfortable and in the zone, everyone wins.

    Something to keep in mind; you should always expect to wait around for a little while. A lot of times, small trivial things may go wrong which could end up pushing the timetable back a little bit. If you expected to be recording by 7, sometimes setup will get delayed because of an issue with the equipment, wiring, or the microphone placements. Placement is unbelievably important when micing an instrument, and if you see an engineer constantly fussing with a microphones placement, be glad, because they're trying to get the best sound from the get go. Try your best not to snap at them to hurry up, or start complaining about it taking longer than expected. With all that equipment and machinery in a studio, you have to expect some of it to be tempermental. Patience is a virtue which will save you many migraines in the studio.

    Another important thing to do while recording - maintain consistency in how you play a part. An engineer will do a sound check to make sure they have a good signal coming in from the microphone or DI box or whatever they're using to record you, and when they ask you to play so they can "get levels" - that means they're adjusting to make sure they get the right volume. It doesnt help the session if a drummer decides to just tap the snare drum when getting levels, and then during the song slams it with both sticks with everything they have. That just ends up making that first take unusable, because it WILL distort the microphone, and the first take will just be readjusting levels to what you actually play. Try to stay consistent.

    Something very important for drummers or percussionists, or whoever ends up going first in the recording: If you are the first person to record and there is no reference track, use a click track, or metronome. Please. It makes the engineer's job easier when everyone can follow your tempo accurately, it helps your performance to get into a steady rhythm without worrying about if you're slowing down or speeding up, and it will save a song if you can do it correcty. It's an amazing pain in the ass if a drummer slows down and speeds up without a metronome, and the guitarists and bassist are expected to follow their tempo changes. Plus from an editing standpoint, if an engineer can map your tempo in Pro Tools or whatever digital audio workstation they're working in, it will make it easier for them to search through your song, they can measure out how many bars you play, and if you need to go to the 23rd bar, the engineer can find it perfectly if you stay on a set tempo.

    Now there are several ways you can approach while recording, or tracking. While tracking, if it helps you to focus on a certain object, or have some type of audience to make sure you play better, then you can set up a picture of someone who inspires you, or even a teddy bear to focus your performance on. It's very tough to recapture the energy and vibe that an artist has while on stage and performing to a large crowd in a small isolation room, and anything that can be done to help alleviate that will be done, within reason. We may not be able to get a girl to throw her panties at you while you record, but then again you never know.

    However, if you like the idea of isolation while you play, and want to feel more like you're just at home jamming on the couch, that's fine too. Whatever you need to get the right performance and emotion from your recording, it shall be done.

    And please be sure to treat all the equipment in the studio with extreme care. Sometimes i'll put 2 microphones in front of a vocalist, a U87 which costs approximately $2800, and the other, an AT4060, which costs about $1,500. That's a lot of money being used to record your voice. Please treat these microphones with respect, and don't tap on them to sound check, or scream as loud as you can into them at close range. These are delicate electronics which can be broken by a sound that's too powerful, and you don't want to be responsible for breaking a studio's best and most expensive microphone. And i'm sure you won't like to explain to the rest of your group why they can't use it now.

    After you're done recording and are listening to the takes, listen and critique as much as you want, it's your music, and always maintain a good conversation with the engineer about exactly what you envision for the music is. If you want it to sound like you're in a garage but clearer, then that can be done. If you want it to sound like you're at MSG, that can be done too. But don't expect the engineer to know what you're thinking, know what you want right off the bat, and be able to do something in 2 seconds. Some techniques engineers do take time to complete before you can hear it. Be patient, and you'll save everyone a headache.

    Once the entire band is done tracking, I really suggest appointing one or 2 members of the band to act as the "Producers" to be around for the mixing process. You generally want these people to know what everyone's opinion is on what the music should sound like, and be fair in making decisions to the overall mix. As an engineer, it gets very problematic when you're working with a 7 piece ska band, and each and every single person wants to throw in their 2 cents. It works much better for one or 2 people to discuss what they want for the group as a whole, and convey that to the engineer.

    Also, don't be afraid to experiment. A lot of engineers end up having to play the part of producer as well, and if they suggest something, be open to their ideas. A lot of bands these days are aware of what kind of things can be done with digital recording in Pro Tools or any other DAW, however I'm seeing an increasing number of musicians being wary and uncomfortable with producing an album that can't actually be played live. It's understandable to be able to play the song you're recording with your band, however a recording is there to demonstrate your ability as musicians. Use the ability that you can have as many parts and pieces to your song as you want to add to the song. Play a second guitar part an octave higher on an acoustic guitar to add flavor and richness to the overall mix. Try doing thirds and fifth vocal harmonies to add power and fullness to a vocal performance. Do multiple takes.

    And to continue off of that, one final complaint. Vocalists - Do Not Be Afraid Of Autotune!!! Autotune has come a long way from Cher and Britney Spears, and some other pitch correction software is Absolutely transparent. When i say absolutely transparent, i mean that I used pitch correction software on a singer to fix a couple of parts they couldn't get right, and they are completely against Autotune and pitch correction, and they had no idea i did anything. Even trained audio professionals can't tell when a vocal has been pitch corrected sometimes, if it's done right. If it doesn't sound good, then don't use it. But at least give it a shot if pitch correctness becomes an issue.

    Follow some of these basic guidelines, and i can assure you, the engineer will rave about how great an artist you are to work with, they will be excited to work with you again, and you will end up with a much better product than what you could have had. The audio engineer is technically your employee as you hired him or her for the job, however if you make their job easier, it ends up with a better product for you. Respect your engineer as much as you would respect another member in your band, and things will go well.

    Beginning and intermediate guitarists are often intimidated by the prospect of improvising.

    A Beginner's Guide To Soloing


    Beginning and intermediate guitarists are often intimidated by the prospect of improvising. Seemingly reserved for the elite of guitar heroes who scrunch up their faces when shredding, this imposing wasteland appears to be impossible to cross.
    But fear not, brave people of the six strings! You can do this!


    Step 1. The Map

    The map for this quest is the A minor Pentatonic scale, outlined in Example 1.
    This is a handy little scale with a big name. Breaking it down, Penta means “five” and tonic refers to tones. So, we have a five-tone minor scale. Nothing too hard about that, right?

    Play this scale a few times to get it under your fingers. The eventual goal is to know it so well, you can play it without conscious thought. If you can do so and carry on a conversation at the same time, good job.



    Step 2 (optional). The Rhythm

    For our canvas to paint sonic art on, we need a rhythm guitar part. The A minor Pentatonic scale contains the notes to build several chords, an A minor being one of them. We'll choose this chord for our exercise.

    Get a buddy, keyboard, or backing track to hold down a steady rhythm of just an A minor chord. The idea is to provide a backdrop for you to solo over.

    Step 3. Show Time

    Armed with your scale, a sense of adventure and trusty friend or backing track, it's time to conquer soloing!

    A: Play your scale in order, ascending, and then descending. Listen to how it sounds against the A minor chord.

    B: Play your scale in the same order, but hold some notes longer than others. Play a few fast, then some slow, and see what sounds you get.

    C: Repeat step B, and this time, repeat some of the notes.

    D: Start to mix up the order of the notes. Skip a few, repeat some, and jump around. Be creative! Approach the scale as a skateboarder would look at a flight of stairs-
    don't just walk up and down 'em!

    E: Add seasonings. Bends, slides, pull offs and hammer ons are to be tried. Picture the solo as a salad, and these articulations are the bacon bits. See Example 2. for further ideas.

    Breakdown

    Ok, so what just happened? Hopefully, you will have taken the scale, listened to it in it's basic form, and then started to spin some melodies from it's framework. At the end of the day, the goal is to play music, not scales. I'll often see students playing scales very well, but not knowing what to do with them. Simple steps such as these can be very helpful. Remember, it's not magic. You can do it, and before you know it, you'll be soloing like an old pro.

    If any of these concepts don't click, or if you're having trouble getting the hang of it, drop me an email! I'll be glad to help you out.

    And for more ideas, don't forget to check out my blog! Rock on!

    Don't forget to check out my blog.

    Josh Urban (photo) is a musician with a unique perspective on music. Always a thinker, he gains insight wherever he can find it, be it in the clubs as a working musician, busking on the city streets, or teaching in the classroom. A naturally enthusiastic fellow, Josh is always fired up about bringing the lessons he’s learned to his readers. Maintaining a website, a blog, and a monthly newsletter, he aims to make musicians stop, think, and play with a little more intensity, integrity, and inspiration. You never know who’s listening.

    Stretching Out: Soloing. Step 2 fruity loops tutorials

    I'm delighted to see that “A Beginner's Guide to Soloing” has struck such a chord with my readers. In response to the multitude of questions I received, here's a few answers to help you get on down the road to the Arena show. Rock on!

    When we first learn to improvise, it's magic. Melodies struggle to emerge, but emerge they do, and boy, we know we're on the way to being a rockstar.


    Now, after we've jammed on the exercises presented in “A beginner's guide to soloing,”
    a few questions start to surface:

    Where next?

    There's a few things you should learn. I don't usually say “should,” but I mean it this time.

    You should learn:

    01. The major scale, and it's seven variations, called modes.
    02. The pentatonic scale, and it's five variations



    While there are many other scales that are useful to our purposes, these are the perfect starting point. Modes often confuse even veteran players, and while their theory and application requires more than a few lines, here's a brief explanation.

    If we play a major scale starting on a note other than it's root note, that resulting shape is a mode. For example, if we play C major starting on C, that's a C major scale. But if we play the same notes in the key of C, but we start on D, the pattern would be called the second mode of C major, or D Dorian to be exact.

    To help visualize this, picture a piano. Playing the white keys, starting on C, we automatically sound a C major scale. Now, instead of starting on C, we start on the next key, D. From D to D, still playing the white keys, we end up with a D Dorian mode, the second mode of C Major.

    Since there's seven notes in the Major scale, there's seven possible starting places to play our variations. Hence, we end up with seven distinct patterns to play on the guitar.

    Carrying this to a different application, we arrive at pentatonic scales. As the pentatonic scale contains five notes, logic has it that we have five patterns built from that scale.

    5 pentatonics +7 modes = 12 shapes.

    Twelve shapes. Learn them. Now. (See chart at the end of the article.)

    I Don't Want To Sound Like A Classic Rock Band – What Should I Do?

    Some folks want to sound jazzy, metal, or hardcore.

    They may be wondering if learning a “blues scale” such as the pentatonic minor, will inhibit their inherent “punkiness.” And perhaps major scales are too happy sounding? Well, my grandmother uses the same words that I do, but we don't sound alike. While we both use the same words, our inflections, tone, and sentence construction are vastly different. Both Metallica and Mozart use the same notes, but style is what sets them apart. Using a certain scale will not always make you sound a certain way. Sure, some scales are bluesy by nature, but style is what truly defines genre.

    This runs the other way, too. I use the same scales as Stevie Ray Vaughan, but much to my dismay, I sure don't sound like him!

    However, there are common applications. Blues musicians have generally favored the pentatonic sound, while the shredders of the 80's made frequent use of the modes, as well as exotic scales.

    The answer? There's only twelve shapes presented in this lesson. Learn them, and decide for yourself. It certainly won't hurt you.

    I'm Just A Rock 'n Roll Rebel, I Don't Need No Scales

    Actually, you're right! (And that's a great Ozzy song.)

    Check this out: There's only twelve notes in the system of Western music.

    A scale is seven of those twelve notes. It's a sonic recipe that we just happen to accept.

    So, chances are, if you're not consciously using scales as of now, you might just be stumbling into them on your own.

    The last thing I want to do is to stifle your creativity, and stomp out your musical spark. No, sir! I'm offering you a shortcut. Yep. These shapes can actually help you be more creative, free, and rockin' by not having to guess! Why “reinvent the Strat” when it can be understood in a few hours?

    If you want to be truly rebellious, you need to know the rules in order to break them. And the ability to solo over the entire neck is a maverick goal, indeed. You'll surely kick butt and take names with your newfound fretboard skills...Well, maybe.

    Scales are just the beginning

    They're the rules, and musical rules should never be taken too seriously!

    While it is important to internalize and digest the shapes, I think Charlie Parker put it best when he was quoted saying “Learn the changes, and then forget them.”

    Our goal is to know the shapes so well, we don't have to think when we improvise. Mental effort generally doesn't sound good.

    There's only twelve notes, so don't get bogged down in 'em. Remember, while there's a limited number of tones, there's an infinite way to express them. After all, we're trying to express music, not scales.

    Conclusion

    Now that you've gotten the hang of expressing with a minor pentatonic scale, have fun learning to talk with these new shapes. The patterns below will grant you freedom over the entire guitar neck, not just a position.

    Don't get stuck in the shapes, and feel free to add chromatic, or passing, tones to the scale. These are fancy words for “wrong” notes, or notes outside of the scale.

    Beware: You may find that you can't express with the Major scale shapes as easily. That's OK, and natural at first. They're harder to digest, and contain several notes that aren't as user-friendly as the pentatonic scale. Technically speaking, the 4th and 7th degrees of the Major scale don't sound too hot when you end a line on 'em. But, that's the subject of another article. Experiment, get the sounds under your fingers, and keep at it.

    Rock on! And don't forget my blog!

    The Major Scale and it's Seven Modes

    Note: These examples are written in the key of F major. Due to the layout of the guitar, I find this key easiest to visualize. Of course, all shapes are movable. To transpose to a different key, simply move the scales up or down.

    The Minor Pentatonic Scale And It's Five Modes, Key Of A Minor

    POSTED: 10/02/2007 - 10:45 am

    article for beginning electric guitar players or novices fl studio

    Guitar SFX 101



    OK this article is mainly intended for beginning electric guitar players or novices with under 1 year exp. with their instrument. Some of the stuff I cover can work on accoustic or classical guitar, but its intended primarily for electric. Don't even bother attempting to flame me for this post cuz my e-dick is bigger than yours and it pisses further too. Constructive criticism can consist of further elaboration/discussion of this lesson. Thats my disclaimer.



    Lets start off with the absolute basic guitar techniques, a lot of these sfx and tricks incorporate one or more of these basic techniques, so you need to know them and practice them often enough to pull some of these tricks off right.

    The Basics

    (Notice that I'm skipping the nomenclature of the instrument and picking/fingering techniques, this is elementary and those concerned should learn this stuff before even pulling this article up.)



    Palm muting: This technique is achieved when the palm of your icking/strumming/whatever you wanna call it hand rests on the strings and thus removes a good deal of vibration from the string when it is played. This results in a muffled sound and is to be considered one of the main foundations of rhythm guitar playing. Good examples of palm muting can be heard in just about every metal/hardcore/whatever-you-kids-call-it-these days-core/rock song produced since the mid 80s. The trick to achieving good palm muting technique is to practice alternating palm muting with unmuted string sound. Here's a basic tab of what i mean..palm muting in tablature is usually indicated by a (.) underneath the note
    to be muted. Some tabbers write this out differently and you should observe tablature keys as they indicate how certain parts are to be played.

    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 <--headbang with me
    e------------------------------------|
    B------------------------------------|
    G-----4-------4-------4--------4---4-|
    D-----4-------4-------4--------4---4-|
    A-----2-------2-------2--------2---2-|
    E-000---00000---00000---00000----0---|
    ... ..... ..... ..... .

    Another good example which develops technique is 'master of puppets' from metallica. This classic opening riff pretty much defines thrashing and palm muting in the oxford manner.

    Here it is:

    e--------------------------------------
    B--------------------------------------
    G--------------------------------------
    D--------------------------------------
    A--2--3--4--3--22---2--3--4--3--2~-----
    E01-01-01-01-01---01-01-01-01-01-------
    .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..

    Just showing the tablature doesn't do the technique justice, so heres my "in-depth" explanation for this piece. The fleshy part of your palm at the base of your thumb is to rest almost ON the bridge at the base of the strings. You will discover that the further away your palm rests from the bridge the more dramatic the muting will be, so the idea is to find your middle ground between the bridge and the strings where you get ideal amounts of muting and still have enough control to lift your palm off the strings for sections you don't want muted. One caveat to point out is that putting too much pressure on the bridge can affect your pitch/tuning, specifically with floyd-rose style floating bridges.

    Practice this riff until the A string notes are clean and crisp, the muted notes are evenly timed and consistantly muted. Another facet of palm muting technique is a rhythm picking pattern in which upstroke and downstroke picking across all 6 strings is muted. Classic example? Smells like teen spirit, nirvana.

    Upstroke/Downstroke picking becomes more crucial in riffs like this one. The x's indicate open muted strings, these are palm muted and picked but not fretted. For down/upstroke timing i will be placing (u)'s and (d)'s for corresponding notes.

    d dd dud d d d d dd dud d d
    e-------------------------------------------
    B-------------------------------------------
    G-----------3-3----------------6-6----------
    D-3-33-xxx--3-3-----6--66-xxx--6-6----------
    A-3-33-xxx--1-1-----6--66-xxx--4-4----------
    E-1-11-xxx------(0)-4--44-xxx---------------

    A lot of ska/punk rhythm consists of palm muted downstrokes and fretted powerchord upstrokes.

    Hammer-On's and Pull-Off's: This technique is used in all genres that feature guitar playing from classical pieces to blues to rock'n'roll etc. Basically to hammer-on or pull-off is to strike a successive note with your fret-hand fingers in a manner that actually picking the note isn't needed/or is a redundancy. That was quite a mouthful, here's a tab example:

    e--------------------3p2p0--3p2p0--3p2p0--3p2p0---
    B-------------------------------------------------
    G-----------1h4-----------------------------------
    D-------1h4---------------------------------------
    A---1h4-------------------------------------------
    E1h4----------------------------------------------

    The h's tell you to hammer, the p's tell you to pull.

    Basically the only notes you are going to pick here, are the 1's on the low E string and the 3's on the high e string. The rest of the notes are played by merely Hammering the next fret down or Pulling off to the lower fret. The harder you strike the fretboard with your fingers the better sound you will get. As you get proficient at hammering on and pulling off you will be able to play the 2nd riff without even picking once.

    The important thing about pulling off notes is that you don't finger fret positions out of turn. For the 3p2p0 lick your anular (4th finger down) should land on the 3rd fret before your index or middle hits the 2nd fret, and this rule carries on to finger tapping as well. Here's a great hammer-on exercise which also develops your speed and dexterity! You've probably seen this one already!

    (you can practice this w/o picking or with, its helpful either way.)

    e-----------------------------------1h2h34-----------------------------
    B----------------------------1h2h3h4------2h3h4h5----------------------
    G---------------------1h2h3h4--------------------2h3h4h5---------------
    D--------------1h2h3h4----------------------------------2h3h4h5--------
    A-------1h2h3h4------------------------------------------------2h3h4h5-
    E1h2h3h4---------------------------------------------------------------

    Basically the idea is to work your way all the way up and down the fretboard, try going all the way up hammering on, alternate picking on teh way down, etc. This pull-off exercise is actually a Gmaj scale.

    e3p1p0------------------------
    B-----3p1p0-------------------
    G----------2p0----------------
    D-------------3p2p0-----------
    A------------------3p2p0------
    E-----------------------3~----

    That riff from that lenny kravitz 'are you gonna go my way' track uses pulls offs like this:

    e------------------------
    B------------------------
    G-4p2p0h2p0h2------------
    D------------2---0-2~----
    A------------------------
    E--------------0---------

    That first part looks like a chemical formula I know, but its a simple lick to _pull off_get it? pull off??? anyway..

    Bends: There are a few different types of bends, some of which can only be done on certain guitars. I'm gonna break em down the best i can.

    Finger bends up and down, and to specific pitches:

    People indicate bends in tablature with a simple b. Sometimes the bend will show you a fret next to it in parenthesis, this is when you are required to bend to that fret's pitch. Here are the examples, and this is the technique. Lets say I'm picking G# on my low E string, (4th fret).I can bend it up to the pitch of the 5th fret- by sliding it across the fretboard closer to the string above it-which is A and is also the enharmonic note of the _open_ A string, which incidentally is right above the low E. This is what im getting at.

    e----------------------------------------------------------
    B----------------i know youve heard this before!-----------
    G----------------------------------------------------------
    D---------------------------------0-0----0-0----0----0-0-0-
    A-----0-0---0-0----0----0-0-0--4b-----4b-----4b---4b-------
    E---4b----4b----4b---4b------------------------------------

    The key to bending right is developing a precise touch and knowing how far to safely bend a note (great way to break strings, bends can be). When tabs speficy a fret to bend to, like the iron maiden riff in hallowed be thy name as illustrated below, you need to be able to match a pitch very well and consistantly too.

    The 16th fret in parenthesis is what the bended note's pitch should reproduce. You don't pick the 16th fret in this example.

    e---------------------------------------------------------------
    B---------------------------------------------------------------
    G--14b(16)14-12-11-12-11-9-11~---14b(16)14-12-11-12-11-9-8~-----
    D---------------------------------------------------------------
    A---------------------------------------------------------------
    E---------------------------------------------------------------

    the riff should sound similar to this if done right.

    e-------------------------------------------------------------
    B--12-----------------------12--------------------------------
    G-----14-12-11-12-11-9-11~-----14-12-11-12-11-9-8~------------
    D-------------------------------------------------------------
    A-------------------------------------------------------------
    E-------------------------------------------------------------

    Moving right along...there is more than 1 way to skin a cat, and there is more than one correct technique for bending notes. The bends i showed you in the 50's blues riff were done by pushing the picked string perpendicular to the rest of the strings, or across the fretboard. This has its limitations and is only justified in the instance i illustrated the technique in.

    The more conventional or correct bend is to pull the fretted note away from the bridge, however due to string tension settings or string/fretboard clearance this can be very painful or futile to get a substantial change in pitch. This particular bend is more difficult to use at first but will eventually become incorporated into your bag of skills and your ability to execute this bend will improve over time.

    The opposite of this bend of course is to push towards the bridge and this will (yep you guessed it) lower the pitch of the fretted note. Simple enough, though I suspect a few of you may overlook that sentence.

    Now for some of the specialty bends, which are pretty much guitar speficic.

    Iron Man bend:

    Tony Iommi pulled this one off almost 35 years ago or so..i guess.

    Basically what you do is put tension on a string behind the nut, (no not the hair next to your taint/gooch/whatever)pick the note and relieve the tension. Its called the Iron Man bend or is referenced that way because that is THE song it came from..i don't know of any other time its been used. Anyway, The E string is pressed down behind the nut with enough tension to make it sound almost E#, picked and then _slowly_ pitched back down to E.

    very boring and redundant tab ensues.

    e-----------------------------------------
    B-----------------------------------------
    G-----------------------------------------
    D-----------------------------------------
    A-------------i am teh iron man-----------
    E-0b0~----0b0~-----------------0b0~-------

    Basically this is a guitar speficic technique, it won't work on setups that lock string tension like the floyd-rose. This guitar has its nut bolted down so the string tension can not be adjusted further. Therefore, putting pressure on the strings behind this nut does nothing to affect its pitch.

    The Gibson whammy bend: The fender strat and telecaster guitars(most anyway)have what we call bolt on necks. These necks are bolted to the guitar body and their truss is adjusted with a bolt at the head of the neck as well as springs which balance the tension between the bridge and body. The neck can flex outward or inward with the truss rod so this is adjusted at the factory to give you the optimum fretboard coverage of the strings and to minimalize the rattling of low string clearance.

    The main reason was for manufacturing ease, guitars produced before then were one piece deals, neck & body were solid and these guitars boast superior sustain properties over the strat style bolt on necks. Anyway, digressing a bit, the cool thing about the strat design was the bridge had a whammy bar on it, and you could bend down pitches very easily by applying pressure with your palm on this bar. Les Paul guitar bridges(most anyway) were bolted down to the guitar body and were thus "fixed bridges". These didn't have a whammy bar. So to emulate or imitate that whammy bar bend in pitch, the technique developed for fixed bridge players is to bend the fretted note _before_picking_or_playing_ that string to the desired 'starting pitch' of the bend; then picking/plucking/striking/e-bowing your string and allowing the string to dip to its original pitch. This reproduced the whammy bar bend to a degree on a guitar that doesn't have a whammy bar.

    e----------------------------------------
    B----------------------------------------
    G----------------7-9-9b10-9-7------------
    D-(10)b9-7-9~--9--------------9p7h9b(10)-
    A----------------------------------------
    E----------------------------------------

    In this riff the gibson whammy bend (lets call it a fixed bridge whammy)

    is the first note played; the bend on the G string is a regular bend done by sliding the string across the fretboard, the last part has a pull off followed immediately by a hammer on bend up to the 10th fret's pitch. Thats my way of incorporating a few of the previous examples to show you an idea of how to articulate notes that would otherwise be bland.

    I have to interject at this point with the--

    vibrato: --because its a cousin

    of the finger bends. Vibrato is when you push and pull the string in the finger bend fashion very quickly and intensly to cause the fretted note to have a wavering, fluctuating pitch. This is a very characteristic sound of the stringed instrument and examples can be heard in violin symphonies to pop music today. It is indicated in tablature by a tilde (~) but seldom is the amount of vibrato speficied. In these cases you would just have to know.

    Heres the old NBC chime, also incidentally a D chord, polished up with a hint of vibrato..and as you will notice often the last note I tab out ends with vibrato, thats the artistic flare showing up.

    N B C ! or an octave up: N B C!
    e-----2---------------------------14-------
    B--------3~---------------------------15~--
    G--2--------------------------14-----------
    D------------------------------------------
    A------------------------------------------
    E------------------------------------------

    How long to vibrato? As long as its ringing, baby. Sustain monster guitars like solid-body les pauls with fixed bridges can almost generate enough resonance to vibrato indefinitely.

    Whammy bar bends: The easiest and yet the most versatile bends. Only for guitars that have whammy bars. We will divide that into 2 groups further, guitars with floating bridges and guitars with fixed bridges. A floyd-rose is a floating bridge, whereas a fender strat bridge will be fixed. You can bend the strat down a bit because there is a recess beneath the bridge that accomodates some leeway for the bridge to flex upwards. On a floating bridge the bridge is balanced out in a heavy metal void by the tension of the guitar strings and the tension of the springs in the body, and this allows it to bend pitch up or down freely. On a fender you can whammy bend down, on a gibson sg you can only bend strings with your fingers, and on a jackson performer you can bend up or down with the whammy bar.

    Some interesting techniques have grown out of bends with and without the whammy bar.

    Dive Bombs and slides: Dive bombs were popular during black sabbath's heyday, and are still used now and then by various bands of various genres. Good examples of dive bombs are the iron man bend in iron man, eddie van halen's intro licks for jump! and panama, and the airplane sound in whole lotta love from led zeppelin was jimmy page's way of showing everyone that his dive bomb was beyond perfected. He actually incorporated a bit of pick slide into his dive bombing which we will cover soon. Basically the technique in dive bombing is to play a note and while the note is sustaining you drop the pitch with the whammy bar or a tuning peg(if you're crazy) to almost no pitch, then resurrect it by bring it back to its original pitch while the string is still vibrating.

    You will notice that once you have lowered the pitch dramatically your string will cease to vibrate very fast, this limits the amount of time you can 'dive' and thus the practice here is to discover the timing and amount of pitch you can dive to before losing your plane (sound). Sliding is when you shift your finger position from one fret to another without relieveing pressure on the string, allowing the pitch changes from fret to fret to be continuously heard. Many songs feature slides as minor as 1 position slides (1 fret to the next) to full fretboard slides from the 21st fret down to the open string. Sliding with your fingers makes a stepping up and down sound whereas using a _glass slide_ makes a continuous sliding sound, a good example of a glass slide being white zombie's more human than human track. A good example of traditional finger sliding is Jimi Hendrix's Purple haze. There are a few different glass/ceramic slides on the market in different shapes, good idea to have one laying around even if you don't use it.

    purple haze

    e------------------------------------
    B--------8---------------------------
    G------7-----------------------------
    D--7/9------7~----3/5----------------
    A---------------------5---5/7r\0-----
    E-----------------------0------------

    Slides are indicated by the starting note of the slide, the direction, and the ending note of the slide.

    This is the beginner's dive bomb.

    We'll play both the 7th fret on A and the open E string, then we will start applying downward pressure on our whammy bars to slowly lower our pitch while sliding the 7th fret down to 0, pausing momentarily at that pitch and then allowing the whammy bar to bend back up to its neutral position while sliding our fretted finger back up to the 7th fret.

    e-------------------------------------------------------
    B-------------------------------------------------------
    G-------------------------------------------------------
    D-------------------------------------------------------
    A--7\\(5)\\(4)\\(3)\\(2)\\(1)\\0-/7---------------------
    E--0r---------------------------------------------------

    I tabbed out the ghost notes for the amateur tab readers to understand that you are sliding your finger from the 7th fret down to nothing and then back up again. However in normal tablature this will just be indicated by a 7\0.

    Sliding up would be indicated as 0/7. The 'r' after the open E is 'ring' and basically you allow this note to continuously sound throughout this lick.

    The Jimmy Page divebomb in whole lotta love is achieved in a different manner. This is the Pick scrape: By dragging the side of your pick across the lower strings lengthwise it will make a scratchy/scraping sound. This sound changes in tonal qualities as you get closer to the center of the string, or further away from the bridge. The closer to the bridge you scrape the more metallic the scrape sound will be, the further away the more melodic and tonal it will sound. Good example, limp bizkit's pollution intro.

    It starts I'd figure somewhere between the middle/lower pickup position with the guitar pick on the low E and maybe on the A string as well; the pick is slowly drawn across the strings towards the bridge and when the pick reaches the last inch or so before the bridge it speeds up to bring the pitch up somewhat before the first riff starts. The subleties of the pick scrape is that your pick's distance from or to the bridge dictates what pitch the string will resonate at and also the speed at which you scrape determines the pitch of the sound of the pick scraping across the coils of the string wire. Listen to whole lotta love now and start wondering about how mr. page achieved his dive bomb sounds. His pickup configurations alone are a good topic of academic pursuit.

    Harmonics, enharmonics, artificial/pinch harmonics, and you!

    Best way to explain harmonics is to take your index finger, bar it at the 12th fret and pick all the strings. Now, reduce the pressure on your index finger so none of the strings are no longer fretted but you are still making contact with the string. Pick all the strings again but this time remove your finger from each string as you finish picking it. You will probably hear the same pitches, only this time you managed to reproduce them without fretting any notes. What is that noise? Harmonics. There are a few positions on the fretboard where they can be heard almost as prominantly as the 12th fret position. Why does the 12th fret position sound so good?

    You will notice it is the exact halfway point across the string from nut to bridge. You will also notice that if you try that same technique at the 7th fret the harmonic pitches produced are substantially higher than what the fretted notes sound like. The 12th fret notes and 12th fret harmonics sound the same because they are the same. The 7th fret ones sound higher because they are closer to one end of the guitar string. The 5th fret positions will sound even higher even though the fretted sounds are lower. This is because the fretted sounds change the overall length of the string in order to change the pitch of the note whereas the harmonic notes are produced by the fractions and ratios of their point of the string's overall length. Thus if you fret a note at any position of the neck that particular string's overall resonant length gets changed and its harmonic halfway point will be shifted as well. Anyway here are some of the sections of the strings which will give you some of the more clear natural harmonics.
    I'm gonna get fraction/decimal on you guys because some of these positions are somewhat between frets.

    open position, no harmonics, full length of string, duh.

    1.2 fret: just ahead of the 1st fret(2nd fret territory) is the highest pitch harmonic that can be reproduced. Its difficult to produce well because it is so close to that end of the string. This harmonic can be duplicated at the other end of the string with slightly different results as playing harmonics directly over or adjacent to pickups can do curious things. The catch to playing harmonics at the bridge is that the note must be picked ahead of where you are touching the string, in otherwords the longer portion of the string is where you should pick the note, not between your finger and the bridge. This parallel section is about 1.8 inches before the bridge.

    You can get harmonics just about every fraction of the way up the bridge with better results as you get closer to the 5th, 7th, 9th and 12th frets. Going towards the other half of the string causes slightly different harmonics to sound as you are picking between the section of the string that is now less than 50% of the overall string length. 15th fret, 16th fret, 17.2 fret(sounds pretty bad) 19th fret(clean again!), 22.2 fret (for you 21 fret guys, just a lil ahead of where the 22nd fret WOULD be)bottom of top pickup, (about 5.5 inches before the bridge)top of bottom pickup (2 humbucker config.) or about 3.2 inches from the bridge.

    Good example of natural harmonic use, metallica's welcome home(sanitarium)
    off the master of puppets cd. Here's the intro part. Harmonics in tab is usually indicated by the little hungry duck signs, \__o<>o__/.

    e----<12>---------<12>---------<12>----------
    B--------<12>---------<12>---------<12>------
    G--------------------------------------<12>--
    D--------------------------------------------
    A--------------------------------------------
    E-0r----------0r------------0r---------------

    another good example is the riff after the chorus in good god from korn's life is peachy album, shown below. (note this song has some ridiculous dropped tuning and im not gonna indicate that for the sake of this example)

    e----------------------------------------------------------
    B----------<7>------<7>-----------<5>----------<7>---------
    G------<5>--------------<7>-----------<7>----------<7>-----
    D------------------------------------------------------<7>-
    A----------------------------------------------------------
    E-1-0-----------1-0----------1-0-----------1-0-------------

    (It may be DBGDAD or something, as its actually played on a 7string)

    So those are natural harmonics, located all over the fretboard. In fact slayer's metal storm--face the slayer track has a nice natural harmonic slide right before the 1st "chorus" riff kicks in. Bad tab, good example, good time to explain tremolo:
    Tremolo is basically speed picking individual notes in repetition so that sound is continually heard and is continually played. You want to alternate up and downstroke picking to build up speed in this department. Soft picks will slow you down but heavy picks will give your picking a slappy noise, try to find your middle ground of pick thickness. I have found that sharper pick shapes may shorten string life but encourage tremolo picking abilities.

    this isn't how it would normally be expressed, and since i already explained slides i shouldn't have to write this like so. The tr stands for tremolo, any notes with tr at the end should be played in this tremolo fashion.

    e-------------------------------------------------------------
    B-------------------------------------------------------------
    G-------------------------------------------------------------
    Dtr<1/2/3/4/5/6/7/8/9/10/11/12>tr-----------------------------
    A-------------------------------------------------------------
    E-------------------------------------------------------------

    basically all you are going to do here is barely rest your index finger on the D string at the highest position, then slowly slide it towards the 12th fret while tremolo picking that string. You will hear a scale of all the audible harmonics on that string for that half of the string. To enhance audibility of harmonics, my suggestions are to use gain/distortion/overdrive to your advantage, and to use pickups with a brighter tone. The EMG pickups have always been absolutely spectacular at capturing harmonics, and with these pickups you can (with practice) produce harmonics at basically any position on any string.

    Last example; zero, smashing pumpkins.

    e---------------------------------------
    B---------------------------------------
    G--5\4-4-4----------5-5\4-4-4-----------
    D---------------------------------------
    A--3\2-2-2----------3-3\2-2-2-----------
    E---------------------

    the harmonics in this song are on the low E string, you start with your middle finger resting on the harmonic at the 3.80fret position and the next harmonic is played around the 4.20 fret position and the last one is around the 4.75-4.80 fret position. Your middle finger is almost already in ideal position when you fret the chords for this riff, and when you shift back to V position your middle is around that 4.80 fret position.

    Artificial (Pinch) Harmonics: These harmonics are achieved by using a different picking technique, or a beginner's sloppiness at fretting/picking strings. They are referred to as artificial harmonics because unlike true harmonics they are not produced by inducing vibration on the string at certain points, but by abrupt scuffing of the string with the pick and/or finger. They are referred to as pinch harmonics by others because the technique basically calls for your to pinch down on your pick so that when you pick a string a bit of your fingertip hits the string almost a split second after the pick does.

    This near-instant change of pick dnyamics causes the string to make a harmonic between the pick and your finger and makes your fretted note sound as if it was actually a harmonic note. Slayer's guitarists have done this to almost excessive proportions in many songs and live renditions of their songs often feature riffs being played entirely in pinch harmonic. We are going to learn the pinch harmonic bend now, a trademark sound of many metal bands and a precursor technique to the scream, made popular by the late dimebag darrell of pantera.

    Pinch harmonics and pinch harmonic bends, aka 'screams'

    e------------------------------------------------
    B------------------------------------------------
    G--------------------------(b)<5>b/<5>-----------
    D------------------------------------------------
    A------------------------------------------------
    E--p.h.--<3>tr---<4>tr---------------------------

    the p.h. is the abbreviation for pinch harmonic, and it is indicated before a harmonic to let you know which kind it is, the latter being n.h. or natural harmonic. The pinch harmonic bend is explained by the b in parenthesis, here indicating that the bend starts just _flat_ of the 5th fret pitch and bends up to its original pitch. Since the 5 is contained in <>'s its a harmonic note and the bend goes from a pitch just below natural, which has a curious symbol that looks like 2 7's doing a 69, the # being sharp and b being flat.

    When ever you see frets in parenthesis or anything in parenthesis in a tab for that matter, its a ghost note and isn't meant to be played. Often its used in reference of a bended note or something similar. So basically the scream calls for you to drop the pitch of the guitar string slightly by putting downward pressure on your whammy bar, picking the harmonic at the 5th fret and allowing the string tension to slowly return to normal. You can go further and use the whammy bar to fluctuate the string tension up and down slightly and get a bit of tremolo to sound. Again Slayer & Pantera use these techniques throughout most of their albums.

    Enharmonics: Sorry to let you down but enharmonics are just notes that appear more than once on your fretboard. The secret joy of enharmonics is that they enable you to play melodies and scales that normally would require very long finger stretches, sometimes 4-5 positions and more. Here are some enharmonics illustrated in relative tuning procedure for guitar, standard tuning.

    e-----------------------------------------0--
    B---------------------------------0----5-----
    G------------------------0-----4-------------
    D-------------0-------5----------------------
    A----0------5--------------------------------
    E--5-----------------------------------------

    The open string notes are identical in pitch (or should be, ur out of tune) to the fretted note just before it. For an added treat, this is how we tune using only natural harmonics. There isn't a harmonic for the G-B string relative tuning..that i know of.

    e-----------------------------------------------<7>--
    B---------------------------------------0--<5>-------
    G------------------------------<7>---4---------------
    D------------------<7>----<5>------------------------
    A------<7>---<5>-------------------------------------
    E--<5>-----------------------------------------------

    Combining techniques: Finger tapping, sweeping, trills, and beyond.

    Finger tapping employs the use of hammer-on's and pull-off's with the dynamics of tremolo playing to allow a guitarist to play a series of notes at distances and speeds on the fretboard which would be difficult if not impossible to reproduce by conventional picking methods. Good examples? One, metallica, last solo; Eddie Van Halen, you really got me, 50 seconds in.

    The secret to mastering finger tapping is to practice tapping different directions (ascending and descending notes) and with both hands. The fingers on your picking/strumming/e-bowing hand are just as useful as the ones you normally fret with.

    e--0h5h8h12p05h8h12p0h58h12------------------------------
    B---------------------------0h5h8h12p0h5h8h12p0h5h8h12---
    G--------------------------------------------------------
    D---------------------------------------------------etc--
    A--------------------------------------------------------
    E--------------------------------------------------------

    e-19p15p12-19p15p12-19p15p12-19p15p12-20p15p12-20p15p12-20p15p12----
    B-------------------------------------------------------------------
    G-------------------------------------------------------------------
    D-------------------------------------------------------------------
    A-------------------------------------------------------------------
    E-------------------------------------------------------------------

    e--------------------------------------------------------------------
    B-19p15p12-19p15p12-19p15p12-19p15p12-20p15p12-20p15p12-20p15p12--etc
    G--------------------------------------------------------------------
    D--------------------------------------------------------------------
    A--------------------------------------------------------------------
    E--------------------------------------------------------------------

    Looks complicated? Its not. Use your pick or your picking finger to hammer on the 12th fret notes in the 1st lick and pull the note off to the open string before hammering on the 5th and 8th frets in succession(with your fretting hand). For the One solo its the same thing only now I have omitted the pull off instructions between riffs for a tap solo. Its basically a redundancy if you know you are supposed to be tapping notes at that point.

    Trills are a variation of hammer on's and pull off's in which you combine the sound of a vibrato with tremolo by vigorously tapping the next note and pulling off to the previous in rapid succession. Cannibal Corpse used trills a lot in some of their later albums. staring through the eyes of the dead cited below.

    When notes are intended to be trilled some people put tr after the notes, some use tr to indicate tremolo. Some people might parenthesize the tr to indicate trills or put the tr between the notes meant to be trilled, which is what i have done here. Make sure you reference a tab refrence key before deciding whether they want you to trill or tremolo.

    e-------------------------------------------------
    B-------------------------------------------------
    G-------------------------------------------------
    D-------------------------------------------------
    A------1tr4--------------1tr4------1tr4 0tr3------
    E-000--------1tr4---000-------1tr4----------------
    ... ...

    The trilled parts are to be played like this:

    e----------------------------------------------------------
    B----------------------------------------------------------
    G----------------------------------------------------------
    D----------------------------------------------------------
    A-1h4p1h4p1h4p1---------------1h4p1h4p1h4p1-0h3p0h3p0h3p0--
    E---------------1h4p1h4p1h4p1------------------------------

    That can be quite a tiring technique at first, practice this one often it builds speed and strength in your fingers.

    Sweeps: Combining techniques

    Sweeping nowdays can be considered the pinnacle of guitar technique to master as the end result of perfect sweeping is breathtaking speed and clarity on the instrument while exhibiting almost no effort at all. The secret pillars of good sweeping technique is to be able to utilize the skills picked up with hammering on and pulling off, finger tapping, playing harmonics and alternate picking combined in execution of this technique. To get you started in what can be easily the most frustrating part of practice, heres a sweeper's scale to remind you how slow and sloppy you really are.
    Malmsteen's far beyond the sun, one of the opening licks and one of my favorites to play.

    e-13h14p13p10------------------------------------------
    B------------14-12-10----------------------------------
    G---------------------13-11-10-------------------------
    D------------------------------12-11-9-----------------
    A--------------------------------------12-11-9-8~------
    E------------------------------------------------------

    Thats a LOT of notes! You are only supposed to hammer on and pull off the notes on the high e string, but to reach the speed yngwie actually plays it at you almost HAVE to sweep down to A. Instead of picking 14 notes you can optimize your picking and only pick 5 notes. Now it won't sound the way its intended but this is just to illustrate one of the ways sweeping can be employed. The more conventional method or technnique is to find a chord progression you like, and just sweep out the individual notes of the chords.

    e-----------0-----------------0------------------------------------
    B---------0---1-------------1---2----------------------------------
    G-------0-------2---------0-------1--------------------------------
    D-----2-----------2-----2-----------2------------------------------
    A---2---------------0-3---------------0~---------------------------
    E-0----------------------------------------------------------------

    instead of just strumming Em, Am, C, and whatever D variant that is, we fret the chord one note at a time and sweep our pick down, up, down and back up the strings again so only 1 note is heard at a time. Very simple chord progressions can be come complicated solo work with some skillfull sweeping.

    Beyond??

    Some technique combinations can be more subtle, or more exaggerated. By incorporating finger slides with finger tapping you can produce some really ridiculous noises.

    e--12h15h17/21-11h14h16/20-10h13h15/19---------
    B----------------------------------------------
    G----------------------------------------------
    D----------------------------------------------
    A----------------------------------------------
    E----------------------------------------------

    In this lick the slide is done by the picking finger all the way up the fretboard. Every time the finger tap 'phrase' is repeated im shifting to a lower position on the fretboard. The idea is to work your way down while sliding up each time. Trey Azagthoth from Morbid Angel does this in a few tracks.

    Harmonic Bends + Dive Bombs = Harmonic Bombs

    Try this: Bar your index finger at the 17th fret, hit all the harmonics at that fret and bend down like you are dive bombing. Now try the harmonic with no string tension and work your way back up.

    Its now 4am and That pretty much covers everything I wanted to talk about in this lesson. Learn all these different techniques, practice them front and back, mix and match different ideas and techniques together to develop your own sound and style. Happy shredding :]

    tips for dj's producer concepts about fl studio

    Got a new stompbox that you just feel like “curbing”? Guitar feeling “stringy”? Is your new cab painted yellow with the word “taxi” on it? “Fret” no more Because “Your Gear, and You” is here to help. Puns aside article #1 covers one of the most confusing topics for new players, and some veterans alike: Distortion!


    So you've decided to take up guitar? Or perhaps you've already been playing for a number of years? Either way if you are looking at this guide look no further for this is the place to be! In todays article we will cover the basics of what is commonly known as “distortion” the act of introducing foreign waveforms into a guitars signal causing that oh-so pleasant sound we have come to know and perhaps even love. There are different type of distortion each with it's own unique elements, some include:

  • Boost
  • Clipping
  • Fuzz
  • Overdrive
  • Tube-Overdrive
  • Gain
  • Distortion



  • I have tried to organize these from the least to most “complicated” in terms of signal modification, no worries though I'm not going to go into the science, this is a “Get started” guide, I may write something later if I really feel like it. Now that, that is out of the way.

    a. Boost

    Boost as the name implies is simply the act of “boosting” the input signal of a guitar, this can be done in a number of different ways including but not limited to: Active pickups, turning the guitars volume up, preamps, and separate boost-pedals. Boosting is not a form of distortion rather it is a precursor, without a high enough input signal distortion would never (as far as this article goes) occur naturally.

    b. Clipping

    Clipping occurs when an amplifier is unable to amplify a signal any more this creates a waveform that cannot be reproduced by the amplifier, since this signal cannot be reproduced it is “clipped” (imagine a large truck going under a bridge that is too low for it, the top of the truck is “clipped off) and a clipped signal causes... You guessed it, distortion!

    c. Fuzz

    Fuzz is most likely the simplest of all distortions, a fuzzboxes (as they are colloquially called) artificially causes clipping in the input signal which causes a distorted and somewhat synthetic sound.

    Fuzz is typically heard in a lot of 60's music from genres including rock, and blues. Fuzz is also an effect that was relied upon heavily by a certain Hendrix, J. (perhaps you've heard of him?). Fuzz is also quite heavily used in modern rock and metal by a number of stoner rock bands including: Kyuss, Fatso Jettson, and Monster Magnet.

    Famous Fuzz Tones Created By: Dallas Arbiter FuzzFace (Dunlop), Seymour Duncan TweakFuzz, Octavia, and the Maestro FZ-1A.

    d.Overdrive

    Overdrive, the most popular type of distortion found in rock music, it gave birth to an era, and it's echo may well be heard on forever. Poetry aside overdrive is the staple of an incredible list of musicians, it can be obtained naturally (through amplifiers themselves), or through artificial means (stompboxes, and digital reproductions). Overdrive is simply yet another form of clipping it is caused by running amplifiers at super-high volumes adding a certain “bite” to the sound. Overdrive was originally created by “driving” (pumping a high input signal into) a tube amp and causing the amp to clip in an “overly” aggressive fashion.

    A common misconception of overdrive is that the amp is actually being damaged because it's being “over”loaded however this is not the case as amplifiers are able to handle the load (clipping anyone?).

    Overdrive can be heard in almost any form of music imaginable but it is predominant in: rock, blues, country, and sometimes metal. Listen to music by S.R.V (who used two *TS9s in succession to create one of the worlds “best” tones), The Rolling Stones, The Beatles, and nearly every other rock band you can think of!

  • The TS9 (Tube Screamer) is considered by most people to be the best possible external overdrive unit ever created, do a quick search on any guitar site and you will find wealths of information about this famous little green box.

    Famous Overdrive Tones Prduced By: Ibanez TS-9 Tubescreamer, Fender Amplifiers, Orange Amplifiers, VOX Amplifiers, BOSS OD-3

    e. Tube-Overdrive

    Tube-overdrive is considered to be a special type of overdrive in todays world as more and more tube amps are (slowly) being replaced by inexpensive, low maintenance solid state amplifiers. Tube overdrive is fundamentally the same as regular overdrive with the exception that tube-overdrive equates good tone with high volumes (easily remedied with an attenuator) since the power-amp is being overdriven rather than the preamp (think of that little 10w Solid state amp you got for Christmas). Most people swear by tube tone because the clipping aside from sounding warmer, producing natural harmonics (a separate issue entirely), and introducing a form of *compression into the equation (another entirely seperate issue!).

  • Compression, to put is simply compression is the act of compressing the input signal so that clipping occurs later (at higher input levels); basically loud sounds seem “normal” while quiet sounds seem “louder”.

    f. Gain

    Gain, is another way to boost the input signal, however instead of modifying the amount of signal reaching the (for all intensive purposes) the input jack on the amplifier, it modifies the signal level that reaches the actual amplification stage.

    (I suggest reading up more on gain, for the purpose of this article I really limited my discussion on it.)

    g. Distortion

    Finally, the holy grail, the big kahuna, the main course, the rueben sandwich, the.. Rambling aside distortion is what you are reading this article for. Distortion is really a misconception, since it only exists as a concept (sorry, had you going there for a while though huh?) “classic” examples of distortion in reality are just extreme version of overdrive (see why I waited on this one?). Distortion is classically seen as a very thick, heavy, and manly sound emphasizing bass, and treble frequencies... While cutting out the “unimportant” midrange (*one scoop or two?) this leads to that heavy metal sound that makes babies grow beards, and vikings pillage space-villages! For examples of “distortion” listen to bands like: Metallica, Slayer, Anthrax, and Megadeth.

  • Please do not scoop your mids, you liked this article so much that mids will never go below 4... Please?

    Famous Distortion Sounds Come From: BOSS MT2 Metalzone, Mesa Amplifiers, Peavy Amplifiers, and ElectroHarmonix Big Muffs.

  • The Ten Commandments Of Rock Journalism fruity loops tutorials productions

    To start with,being a metal journalist is completely different from being an ordinary music journalist. Unlike the music journalist who would review the latest Jazz album to hit stores, over coffee by the fire, the metal journalist would rather like to find themselves in a pit in Wacken or shouting out “Maiden! Maiden!” alongside another fifty thousand metal-heads at a “Matter of Life and Death, Promo Tour” gig.However being a metal journalist is harder than being “just another music journalist”,and here I will cover what I believe to be “The ten commandments of Rock Journalism”.



    01. Know your music-To be a music journalist, let alone being a metal journalist,you have to know your music. This might sound a bit obvious,but I personally know quite a lot of people,who do not really know what the Locrian mode is,but will criticize the latest Cannibal Corpse album for not being melodic enough.

    Yes, ”melodic”, I said! To be honest,you can’t really explain the evil element that you feel when listening to Black Sabbath’s “Black Sabbath”, without knowing the Tritone or “Diabolus in musica”, can you? But, funnily enough, people try to.




    02. Know your metal-Just knowing the theory behind Sabbath will not make you a metal journalist. You have to know your metal. Assume you are reviewing Drowning Pool’s latest Studio Album “Full Circle”. You have to know and mention, how Drowning Pool has evolved throughout the years with vocalists ranging from Dave Williams to Jason “Gong” Jones and Ryan McCombs. The vibe you felt when listening to “Full Circle”, is not just enough,you have to be able to notice the difference between the vibe you felt when you first listened to “Tear away” and the vibe you felt listening to “Full Circle”.

    03. Be open to all forms of metal-You may already know this, but metal is the single genre within which one can find the most number of sub-genres. I will save the list of all the metallic sub-genres for another post. So, yes, as a metal journalist you have to be equally open to all these sub-genres. One minute you’ll be looking upon a wall of death at a Lamb of God concert, struggling with words as to how to put it into words to appear in your live gig review. And the next, you’ll be scribbling down your album review of HIM’s “And love said No!”. This also includes appreciation towards other forms of